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The 2.4L is a DOHC. You're thinking 2.5L OHV I think.

I did think about nitrous for my use case. I want some extra power on demand to pass on our 2-lane highways from time to time. Much of the rest of the time the 4.0L is sufficient.

I don't know where you think you're gonna get it put together with a $40 budget. 20ish years ago I drove someone else's 4.0L TJ sporting a cherry bomb style glasspack for about 3 hours because they were exhausted from the drone after 20 hours. God awful experience. You've got to find some...

I think your definition of power or pep does matter here. As does understanding what your specific goals are. You probably need to understand the performance characteristics of the 4.0L. The dyno power series addressed a range of power adders while keeping the stock displacement and keeping...

I hadn't been backpacking for a several years until last fall. Just car camping. I am almost always carrying some heavy camera gear with either my 4"×5" camera or my full frame 35mm kit and ultralight has never been a thing for me. On this trip I knew snow was a possibilty as well as a wide...

Out west in non technical wheeling, I've found the 4:1 241 gearbox to be OK for stretches in 5th gear where you want to do ~20mph between lower speed obstacles. Eventually you'll just want to stop and switch to 4Hi though. Would 2.72:1 change that for me? Probably not.

My original radiator failed just before the NOS Mopar stock ran out. I should get 5 or so more years out of it, but you never know. I saw a well researched post on the Koyorad specs and decided to keep one on hand. Inspected on arrival, and I've gotta say it looks to be better quality than the...

I went back to your original post. Your idle RPM was 655. This is close to normal. The idle in Drive is 648 when the engine coolant temp is between 185F and 212F and the idle in park is 664 in the same conditions. I do not see that you have a problem.

That was my inclination too. For some reason the stock shifter knob is buzzing when you tighten the locking nut and this one isn't. The B&M knob for the NV3500 seems to be the same diameter as the NV3500 knob. I'm going to see if I can find a leather washer to put between them The ones I...

I'd seen some questions about the position of the B&M short shifter. I'll try to dig up that thread, but this is mine with the Barnes no-lift bolt on skid, no BL, no MML. 1st gear 2nd gear Plus with a large McD coke. Seem to recall someone asking about a giant gulp or something.

Got my rear DC driveshaft angle dialed within 1.0- 0.5° and my high speed vibrations are still there. Unless I kick into 4wd or am coasting. It's always been there and is more intense in 4th. I remember conversations on the rubicon forum from the early days postulating a driveline harmonic in...

It doesn't usually take long for them to arrive, but it's a better made part with a low failure rate on a critical part. Consider that $6-$30 part can destroy your $$$ motor should it fail. Motorad dominates the market, and has been driving quality to the bottom of the barrel. They've capture...

I think it's better that the Moog option if you have the Moog part with the split poly bushing they show online. We'll see if it holds up for the long term, but the bushings in my JKS quick disconnects have been going 20+ years and these seem to be of comparable quality. It is a one piece...

A few more things done today after work. Front rotor both got the flex hone Installed the front BMB pads. Spidertrax 1.25" spacers went back on. I noticed when I ran them before briefly that the extra width helps the jeep stay centered in the ruts in the highway from semis better. JKS rear...

I have an 04 Rubicon which has a bunch of differences in the T-case and rear driveshaft. It's my only Jeep and I've owned it from new, so I can't speak to the SYE recommendation. The only other one I've worked on much is my Dad's 06 LR Rubicon. If you can wait until you get the springs...

You've got what you need to get started and go. If you contact Tom Woods, they'll tell you most of their Rubicon DC driveshafts are between 16" and 17". For my Barnes no-lift skid + Rancho 2.5" spring with no BL and no MML I needed a 16.5" partly because the output shaft is turned up slightly...

I'm not sure what was going on there. The spacer up front looks like a 1.75", but where is the spacer on the back? Was it rolling carolina style? My only addition is a pair of adjustable lower arms in front will give you the ability to dial in caster to stock and improve the way it tracks...

Swapping some BMB pads onto some lightly used rotors. Light hone to clear off the ceramic pad. Also one of those moments were I was wishing I'd gone dual adjustable arms. Dialing in the pinion on a new DC driveshaft so I could take the Barnes skid back to flush mount. Don't have plans to...

The Rubi driveshaft is shorter due to the length of the 241TC which can make the angles pretty steep. 3.5" is pushing it. The TC drop is probably there for a reason. You might be able to help it with a motor mount lift. But if you want that clearance now, a motor mount and body lift may...

The resources section has a parts list for 2000 TJ and it shows only one ECT sensor Qty 1 in 4.0L. There is likely an FSM in there as well for 2000. I agree that the ECT sensor is suspect here if the thermostat was tested to open accurately at ~195F while the ECT showed 180. And it is...