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Considering how the aftermarket kits fit. You may just want to try the weatherstipping first. For what it is worth, mine hasn't leaked yet.

The dual 2ohm sub is wired for 4 ohms. The NVX is 180W x 1 at 4ohms. The sub is rated for 150W RMS, so pretty much perfect for it. I think I did figure it out though. I found a setting called SUBW LEVEL that can be set to OFF and 0 - 15 in the headunit. I thought it was a bass boost or eq...

I ended up getting the NVX VADM1 to power the Kicker Comp RT 6.75. I used a Skar 8ga amp kit to wire it. The headunit is an Alpine ute-73bt. One problem I am having though is the sub isn't very loud unless I really turn up the bass on the radio. The 5.25's in the dash are louder and they are...

Yep, that is it. My factory one is like your drawing. But, my replacement points down.

Glad the weather stripping worked. And, isn't it nice not to have to worry about wet floormats or carpet anymore. I will say one of my pieces has moved a little on the door frame, but ist still doesn't leak. If it ever moves to far and starts leaking I will just pull it off and put a new...

I thought the OEM had a small 40ish watt amp powering the factory sub.

So, you are saying I could use a normal 4 channel amp to power the other speakers and the sub? How would a wire that up? I was really only looking to power the sub, but I am curious how to use a 4 channel amp that way.

Yeah, that is where I want to put it. Just need to pick the amp for the Kicker.

I ended up getting the Kicker Comp RT 6.75 DVC 2-ohm for cheap, so I am looking for an amp now that will fit under the driver side dash to power it. I also have 4 Infinity Reference REF507F powered by an Alpine UTE-73BT headunit. Most post I have found reference the DVC 1-ohm version version...

The two pictures shown in my post show where the weatherstipping goes. I think it looks pretty stock, until you compare it to the other side. My door seemed to stick out some on the passenger side up near the top where the windshield meets the soft top. Maybe warped or just poor fitment from...

Here is what fixed mine. I added this weatherstripping from amazon. It is 1/2In x 1/8. It completely stopped my leaking. Two hurricanes have passed over it along with countless downpours, and it hasn't leaked.

Was going so good, then it through the code again today. Got home and watched my Thinkdiag as I moved wires around. Specifically where I joined the wires. It stayed in sync the entire times I was moving wires around. So, I think the bad plug is fixed and where I joined it is good. Going to...

I installed the new connector. My wire connection is in the thick part down near the 'T' intersection. I zipped tied the connector to the AC line due to having a lot of extra wire now and deciding to keep it away from the heat from the engine. Drove it around the block and it was fine. Maybe...

I don't think it is the crank sensor. I am pretty sure it is the actual connector for the cam sensor. It did it again about an hour ago. So, I decided to connect the scan tool up and watch it. As soon as I touched the connector I saw it hit 17 degrees and go out of sync. I tested it several...

P0344 came back today and put it in limp mode again. Wish I knew how it was losing the signal. Any chance it could be the crank position sensor? Getting tired of just replacing parts, but I don't really no what else to do or what a shop would do.

I thought it was around that. It must just show one when it loses the signal. So, I put the NAPA sensor back in and drove it around for about 20 minutes. It stayed in sync the entire time, and I watched the difference move up and down with the rpms. It never just hit one and stay there...

Seems to be doing it pretty regularly right now. I used the ThinkDiag to record it when it happend. I had all the cam and crank data along with the rpms. Here is a screenshot right before I ended the recording and a graph stopped at a point where it threw the code. It stayed at a cam crank...

It threw a P0344 again this afternoon and went into limp mode. Looking for something else to try now? Should I try the NAPA sensor instead of the new Crown one? Anything I can look at with my new ThinkDiag?

It runs fine now and no codes, currently. We will see how it does after a few weeks. Interesting thing I found out. So, when I took the old OPDA out with the holes aligned I noticed that crank pully was not lined up at TDC. It was assumed it had just slipped in the past given its age. I...

Got my Thinkdiag2 today. I adjusted the OPDA to 0.5 after tightening it it down. The strange think is it will not do a relearn. I tell it do a Relearn Cam Crank. It says to switch the ignition off and back on. But, when I look at the learned value it hasn't changed. It says 6552.10. Seems...