Search results

Scrounged up this old pic of my last Jeep. I painted the inside of these fog lenses yellow/amber using duplicolor metalcast spray paint. Worked pretty well actually. Thought I'd share since you mentioned you wanted amber fog lights. I think the lenses were sealed so I had to pry them apart...

Not gonna lie, I panicked a little yesterday when I mocked up the tie rod at full stuff and saw this: A couple things working against me in this pic though are that I stuck larger 2" PVC on there for mockup and the pitman arm itself was biased to the left side. I removed the pitman clocking...

Cut another chunk off my knuckle: Cut an even smaller chunk off my other knuckle: Joint now clears the casting at the max angle it will see when steering, unless I adjust the steering stops for more: Here is the general idea: The steering stabilizer might pose a couple issues being...

Not speaking from personal experience but if you look at Blaine's builds, he cuts entirely through the rear frame and adds a new section of frame on the inboard side to fit the poly tower through. IIRC the back face of the tower is 1" past the frame. You'll have to hunt for the pics, I don't...

Thanks for the update! Curious to see how the grooves affect it. I don't blame you for wanting to try something else either, pain in the butt to break down and clean all the joints on a rig at once. I wonder how the Summit Machine joints are.

I've been busy with non-jeep stuff the past few days, but my Metalcloak dog leg TREs came in. Threw one on real quick to see how it looks, and I think everything might clear just fine. Need to trim a tiny bit more off the knuckle casting though. The TRE might interfere with the stabilizer bolt...

You might be onto something with the vacuum leak. Would make sense that the tone changes or goes away when you apply brakes because of the brake booster. I think the correct way to check is with a smoke machine, but I think you can do something along the lines of spray down the hoses with brake...

It will be if this actually works!

Alright so I made some progress on my steering arm idea. Converted the CADboard to actual CAD, printed it out in PLA, then mocked it up after a few iterations. Not sure this will be the final design yet, but I'm close enough to see if everything fits nicely. The construction will be 1/4" top and...

That's valuable info, I think I'll end up with at least a cooler before long. Regardless of whether I get a ram, I need a spot to put a stabilizer anyways. I'm not done designing the mount yet but I think I'm onto something...

Did some CAD work. Thinking something like this: Still needs some refinement, but this gives me a lot of inches of weld to the casting and if it works out, a spot to mount a hydro assist ram double shear in the future. It would be 1/4" plate top and bottom then a solid chunk of 1" thick at...

Thanks!

😬

It's time to start figuring out that high steer arm, but I needed to figure out how to retain the position I came up with for where the drag link needs to go. My fixture was attached to the portion of the arm that needs to be cut off. Here's what I came up with: That worked out! Now I...

Can't offer any specific help, but there is a certain amount of oil that is supposed to live in the system, and you'll be removing most of it when you remove those parts.

Chopped off my JK spring seats and tacked on my backwards TJ ones. Everything seems to line up way better now. Picture is at full droop. I think the trick to keeping the jounce bucket off the front of the spring is to make sure the back of the spring seat is a few degrees higher than the front...

I just checked that Currie track bar bolt size, and it is actually 5/8". The JJ ball for that joint has a bore size of .625" and an OD of .8" at the thinnest spot. Boring that hole out to .75" definitely won't work because it will leave a wall thickness of .025" on the centering ball. That being...

It is definitely some nice paint, but with how expensive the stuff is, I wish it didn't spray out of the can so fast!

Thanks! I'll stick with that to be safe then. Come to think of it, the Currie track bar JJ is single shear at the frame end, and I think the bolt is about 3/4" there too. Good point on the steering ram!

Actually, after thinking about it, there's only so much I can do about the steering ratio. In order to make the knuckles move less, either the distance between the ball joint and the drag link needs to be longer, or the pitman arm needs to be shorter. When I make my high steer arm, I'll just...