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He was referring to the head gasket not the rocker cover gasket. As Mac stated "head gaskets hold pretty well until they heat up" so you might try re-testing a warmed up coolant system..

This thread covers just about everything. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/what-u-joints-come-on-the-tj.2438/

I'm using 2 rows of six 4 footers each hanging at about 11' in my 30 x 48 shop and it's fine for general lighting but I still have a few low hanging (4' led) lights over specific work areas and task lights on machinery. You will not miss the fluorescent lighting and cost.

All good suggestions above, in the end I prefer to use multiple form of attack starting with a chain flail. We ran his short piece of 1/2 snake with chain threaded in thru every opening and it cleaned everything in its path.

I was able to restore the original screw pattern that way.

I dealt with similar on my dash and was able to pop rivet a piece of aluminum sheet metal to the face of the original plastic radio opening.

I used the later double din bezel available on Amazon and fit it up to the 99 dash.

The dash bezel will fit but it's not a direct swap since it does not have the same push pin fastener locations. My 99 has the later bezel that I added 2 small screws at the very bottom of the bezel to keep it in place. I doubt the entire dash would swap over due to the heater box configuration...

Just guessing by the location but it appears to be the O2 sensor plug.

If your gonna put her away for a bit set up a rotary lawn sprinkler under for a bit, does a decent job getting everywhere.

My Shop is setup with 3 sources of heat depending on what's going on. The primary source is in-floor hydronic radiant which I use if I'm into a daily project like when I re-framed the TJ a few years ago, otherwise just to comfort the space for short term I have a ceiling hung HW unit heater...

This should do it. https://www.ebay.com/itm/143657884320?mkcid=1&mkrid=711-53200-19255-0&siteid=0&campid=5337789113&customid=&toolid=10001&mkevt=1

What Chris said. Although desirable having an older low mileage vehicle is not always cracked up to be, coming from experience... In Queens before retiring these guys did our fleet service and repairs and coming from a mechanical business I respected the owners abilities...

Tackled that issue several times and found I was able to get a small pair if needle nose Vice Grips (with sharp jaws) up behind the fender lightly clamped on the nutsert did the trick.

Considering the condition of the system I would suggest ripping it all out from the rear brake hose (includes the new block) get new wheel cylinders and the brake lines are easy to fab from the repair sections.

Not good advice, the hose is nothing more than the axle vent.

The block can be removed from the axle to remove the broken end after the other brake line is disconnected by removing the hose and backing the hose fitting off the block

Will come with the new line if you buy a repair section.

Most local auto parts stores carry 3/16" repair sections that are very easy to bend and shape by hand and if you don't have a double flair tool they will generally loan or perform the flair for you.

It would be of use to know what issue your experiencing....