UKTJ
TJ Addict
Sorry, wasn't a request but just a suggestion as to how you could recover something for your time. I have neither the facilities or the skills to take something like that on.
Best mild tummy tuck?
- Thread starter thekidwithquestions
- Start date
PM sent. I'm a mechanical engineer and I've considered doing this but it wasn't on my short list. It would be nice to make one knowing the correct hole locations for the frame. Parallel frame tubes would've been too easy.
I agree, the frame angle made for a fun challenge.
Are the newer TJ frames the same as the older ones? I thought I remember hearing about some differences between the two in how the skids bolt on. I have a 1998. I see you have an 04 LJ.
The holes are in different locations is what I know. The Nth Degree tummy tuck skid I have has both bolt patterns cut into it. I don't know what other differences there are.
I've got to agree with everyone saying having a crossmember mount for your tranny over having it bolted to your skid is WAY better. I hated dropping my Nth Degree tummy tuck skid because I had to support the drivetrain first and it was always a PITA.
I didn't have the choice of the Savvy skid not just because I have a 97 TJ but also because I don't have a stock drivetrain so I don't think it would have fit.
And yes I'm still running steel for now. I couldn't see ordering the UCF aluminum skid after all the comments about how it was just designed from it's steel counterpart. So for now I'll run the UCF steel skid and maybe at some point I'll try to make a skid like @B00mb00m did.
I have a Skid Row steel engine skid that I bent at some point also.
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
Best way is to fit up the skid and mark the holes exactly where you need then you can countersink the bolts to be flush to skid.
I agree, this is ideal and the countersunk bolts look really nice. My concern was possibly beating the skid up hard enough to distort one of the hole locations resulting in a preloaded fastener. That was part of the reason I went with slots.
Good thinking. Gotta think about beating it too hard when considering slots. I'm a big fan of slots myself. Only issue is sometimes after beating on it too hard, you can wind up with dirty slots, and nobody likes those.
The mention of an independent T-case support is what sold me on the Clayton skid many years ago. It really is wonderful to drop the skid plate and have easy access, everything stays in alignment, and no jack stand in the way. It wasn't much of a clearance gain, so now I'm tummy tucking the same skid and redesigning the T-case support. Once you have a stand alone crossmember you'll never go back.
All this talk of independent T-case support has left me feeling inadequate. Is a system available and compatible with UCF skids?
There are some independent crossmember kits. Any of the builder type places like TMR and I know Genright offers something.
The UCF skids are all designed to support the drivetrain as the factory skid does. There's no reason you couldn't add in a separate crossmember but it would be on you to make it all work together.
Here is my experience with UCF. Found a used 1/4" steel skid plate locally for $100. Thought I was buying an "extra-clearance" when in fact it was an "ultra-high clearance". The difference is 1". After trying to install the ultra-high I realized how much extra work it would require.
To install the ultra-high clearance, you need at least 1" of body lift PLUS a UCF LOPRO mount. The extra-clearance only needs a lo-pro mount. I don't have a body lift, so I decided to lower it 1" using a 1" X 2" aluminum bar. The aluminum bar is much stronger and looks better than spacers IMHO. The ends are tapered so they don't get hung up.
The most difficult part was getting the exhaust hanger adjusted to the correct height. Too long and the catalytic converter rests on the skid plate, too short and it touches the body. Now that I have the right length I might weld it instead of bolting it together, pretty janky.
End result and clearances.
To install the ultra-high clearance, you need at least 1" of body lift PLUS a UCF LOPRO mount. The extra-clearance only needs a lo-pro mount. I don't have a body lift, so I decided to lower it 1" using a 1" X 2" aluminum bar. The aluminum bar is much stronger and looks better than spacers IMHO. The ends are tapered so they don't get hung up.
The most difficult part was getting the exhaust hanger adjusted to the correct height. Too long and the catalytic converter rests on the skid plate, too short and it touches the body. Now that I have the right length I might weld it instead of bolting it together, pretty janky.
End result and clearances.
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I know you'd probably pop me one in the jaw if we met but yes, big hits aren't little ones and thanks for keeping it grounded.
If you install divorced crossmember you can use a DIY belly skid that UCF offers or other companies like TMR or Barnes 4WD.
Here is UCF's DIY skid. But it doesn't have any braces so you're gunna have to add something. And this was part of the reason I went with steel instead of aluminum for now also.
https://undercoverfab.com/transfer-...odel-early_tj_97_02/68-drop_from_frame-1_drop
You constantly remind me I was right. You really do need help!
This wasn’t the kind of tummy I was interested in at 15
Times have changed
Times have changed
B00mb00m
The Church of Cutting Brakes of Atlas-Front Digs
Supporting Member
Ride of the Month Winner
You have come to the right place. We're here to help.
I just recently installed the UCF no BL required skid. It adds some additional clearance over the stock skid.
I went this route mainly because I don't really do any rock crawling any more. Most of what I do is old fire roads, river beds and on occasion... mud.
My old TJ had a full tuck and it was a pain in the ass for a daily driver. I spent more time trying to tame the driveline vibes than it was worth.
I think you really need to determine what you plan on doing with your jeep and build it accordingly. Most people that I know that built their jeeps for rock crawling don't dd their rigs.
I went this route mainly because I don't really do any rock crawling any more. Most of what I do is old fire roads, river beds and on occasion... mud.
My old TJ had a full tuck and it was a pain in the ass for a daily driver. I spent more time trying to tame the driveline vibes than it was worth.
I think you really need to determine what you plan on doing with your jeep and build it accordingly. Most people that I know that built their jeeps for rock crawling don't dd their rigs.
Good marketing... That looks just like their non DIY one, without the brace in it.