Is it common to install bigger transmission mounts when installing a lift?

This may be a dumb question, but when they install a lift, do they put a bigger transmission mount? I have no idea what the guy before me did to this Jeep all I know is I’ve been having to fix the crappy half-ass job he did to it when lifting it. I recently had a clutch replacement job done and before that, I never realized what was the reason I had to shove it into reverse. Then it clicked when my mechanic pointed it out. My trans mount is old and broken at the rubber, probably shrunk with the heat over time. I was told to get a new transmission mount since 4th and reverse would pop out.
I drove it myself, and I can hold 4th gear for long enough to go into 5th, and the reverse feels the same.

I guess I never realized the broken mount underneath was pushing the whole gear shifter down and theoretically speaking, a new one, would push it up enough for the gear shifter to give it more room to go into those gears. I have a 2004 TJ.

I can fix the problem by removing the main console for it to shift into gear the way it should but that would be a temporary fix for something else that’s broken.

My question is, do the transmission mounts stay the same size when they install lifts? I just want to make sure I grab the correct one. I am leaning towards going for the Mopar one (even though they are like $130 versus.

any help would be appreciated

SecondChanceTJ said:

First, pictures would help. How modified is your drivetrain? Motor mount lift? Transfer case drop? tummy tuck? Anything of that nature can affect how the shifter fits into the hole in the transmission tunnel and the console. I wouldn't expect the transmission mount to be the prime suspect here.

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I’m pretty sure it has a small transfer case drop. I’ll post some pics. I was told by a jeeper friend who knows more than me that the little spacers between the skid plate and the frame allowed for the transmission to be dropped a bit. I will post some some pictures. I do not see anybody lift mounts unless I am mistaken and I have no idea where to look for the engine mounts. I don’t know if it has any. I had the Jeep for a year and it’s my daily for now but been upgrading (well more like fixing things and putting something better as soon go) little by little and the more I dig around, the more upset I get at the previous owner for half assing everything.

other than that, I mean I was able to shift okay before, maybe I had gotten used to how it felt but now with a new clutch, I can actually tell the difference once it sits correctly in a gear ( 1st, 3rd, and 5th gear) since I feel it sort of pop into its rightful spot, and I do not feel the same for 2nd, 4th and reverse. Changing the boot might do the trick, but you are right Jerry. The easiest solution would be to move the console back a bit. I do feel it hit the console every time since I basically have to slam it a bit harder than before and it still doesn’t feel like it’s sitting where it should

I could still look into the transmission mount however. It is broken, like the rubber snapped and I don’t know I would assume that rubber also shrinks a bit at some point allowing it to be compressed a bit more.

here is a pic

WillTJ said:

Yikes, that is one hell of a belly drop, how big are those spacers between the frame and the cross member, 2 inch?
I think you need to delete them and get a short shaft sye kit for the transfer case and a double cardon rear drive shaft to correct the driveline angles and get that gearbox back in a better spot!

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I believe so. I’ll have to double check to measure. But yes that’s been on my list. Front driveshaft first to wrap up the front with the new stuff and upgrades.

Why didn’t I think of that!?!? that makes so much more sense. I mean I sort of knew it had the spacers to drop the transmission but I just wasn’t 100% sure.

So far, I’ve replaced all suspension in the front. I put new metal cloak adjustable control arms and track bar, rancho RS5000x shocks front and rear, drag link, tie rod, tie rod ends, steering stabilizer. I did the tj to zj conversion. The next thing I was going to do was to get a tom woods or adam’s driveshaft for the front then start upgrading the back. But I can’t just dump a huge amount of money. We all know metal cloak control arms and track bars aren’t budget friendly and I just had the clutch replaced. I think I’m going to have to do it sooner than later now since this new clutch and things have changed slightly.

The Jeep has a 3 in lift and previous owner had the original control arms, he drilled a new hole and it was crooked for the track bar, and moved the original to the right and up which shot the rubber greasable boot. Of course I didn’t notice this until I took it to a shop and they didn’t even see the issue. It wasn’t until I removed it that I saw this so I removed the axle and took it to a shop to get a new track bar bracket welded on. Still has stock control arms in the rear and all that but it’s been my plan to switch it all out. Just don’t have the funds to do so yet. I mean of course the transmission mount will also be replaced since it’s basically snapped in half but it seems like my priorities have changed at the moment.

I can’t believe I didn’t think of this.

Daredevil96 said:

I believe so. I’ll have to double check to measure. But yes that’s been on my list. Front driveshaft first to wrap up the front with the new stuff and upgrades.

Why didn’t I think of that!?!? that makes so much more sense. I mean I sort of knew it had the spacers to drop the transmission but I just wasn’t 100% sure.

So far, I’ve replaced all suspension in the front. I put new metal cloak adjustable control arms and track bar, rancho RS5000x shocks front and rear, drag link, tie rod, tie rod ends, steering stabilizer. I did the tj to zj conversion. The next thing I was going to do was to get a tom woods or adam’s driveshaft for the front then start upgrading the back. But I can’t just dump a huge amount of money. We all know metal cloak control arms and track bars aren’t budget friendly and I just had the clutch replaced. I think I’m going to have to do it sooner than later now since this new clutch and things have changed slightly.

The Jeep has a 3 in lift and previous owner had the original control arms, he drilled a new hole and it was crooked for the track bar, and moved the original to the right and up which shot the rubber greasable boot. Of course I didn’t notice this until I took it to a shop and they didn’t even see the issue. It wasn’t until I removed it that I saw this so I removed the axle and took it to a shop to get a new track bar bracket welded on. Still has stock control arms in the rear and all that but it’s been my plan to switch it all out. Just don’t have the funds to do so yet.

I can’t believe I didn’t think of t

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NashvilleTJ said:

I would go ahead and replace the tranny mount (a stock version is fine), but leave the spacers in there until you are ready to do the SYE and CV driveshaft. If you pull those spacers and do nothing else you will have driveline vibes, if you don’t already.

Correcting the driveline drop will also likely correct your shifting issue.

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Will do that. Well I have a rubicon so no need for the SYE. I will be going back to school (last semester of college) but might end up picking a job to work at least once a week to save up for the rear driveshaft, control arms, etc. Thanks for all the help everyone!