Wrangler Sport / Mostly Stock / 1997 Wrangler / Almost a Classic
- Thread starter ballpark
- Start date
After my Drummond Island Trip I had three issues with the jeep. My sway bar link broke. (I put a new one in, drivers side, right after I left Drummond)
My steering gearbox started to leak. Tried Lucas, but it was too big of a leak to go untreated. Like a 6" spot on the drive after a few hours. Purchased a re-built box from AutoZone.
Steps:
My steering gearbox started to leak. Tried Lucas, but it was too big of a leak to go untreated. Like a 6" spot on the drive after a few hours. Purchased a re-built box from AutoZone.
Steps:
- Impact Wrench on the three bolts that hold the gear box on to loosen them.
- Impact Wrench to on the steering shaft bolt to loosen.
- Jacked up front end, jack stands
- Removed the return hose from the reservoir, pointed the end of the hose towards a bucket.
- Turned steering wheel back and fourth to pump the old fluid out.
- At this point, you should put the wheels back on the ground so that the wheels don't turn to one side and put stress on the steering components (I think)
- 33mm socket (Amazon) to remove the nut on the pittman arm with impact wrench.
- Pittman Arm puller. PB Blaster, tighten puller, hit with hammer, repeat. Warning! At one point, I noticed the puller bolt was getting easier to turn. I was using a breaker bar. Carefully inspected the puller and noticed one of the fingers was starting to bend. Immediately stopped tightening the puller. Applied a bunch of heat and then banged on the puller with a hammer like crazy and then 'pop' off it came!
- Remove the 3 bolts, drop the end of the gearbox onto a jack.
- Remove the supply and return lines, unbolt the steering shaft, remove.
- Wheels should be straight, don't turn the gearbox, its centered at the factory.
- Install the steering shaft, look for the keyed location and align.
- Be careful installing the new supply and return lines, make sure you use the new o-rings. Its hard to start the threads at the odd angle they are at and they are easily stripped.
- I used loctite blue on the bolts, the three that hold the gear box, and the one on the steering shaft, (and later the pittman arm nut)
- Found out one of my 3 threaded holes on the gear box was stripped. (wonderful) Ended up buying a grade 8, 7/16th 5" bolt and nut and used that. Worked perfect and fit excellent.
- Put the pittman arm back on, paying attention to the spline as its specific. Nut installed with lock washer to 180ft lbs (borrowed my neighbors torque wrench)
- Jack the jeep back up, make sure all hoses are attached, add fluid, turn steering wheel back and fourth to pump fluid in. Don't let reservoir empty. Then once no more fluid goes in, run engine with cap off and look for bubbles. I didn't see many at all.
- Steering wheel wasn't centered anymore. Using a 15mm deep welled socket (yep, another common on) , heat, and an impact got the nuts off, slide the collars to each side, and used heat and pb blaster to unseize the threaded union. Stuck a screw driver in the slot to get it to rotate. Then a pipe wrench worked.
- Centered the steering wheel.
- No more leaks!
Used XRC 9590 one time at drummond. Worked like a champ!
Came home and un-spooled, cleaned and oiled wire. When doing this two things happened.
1. The wired remote would stop working. I would slap the remote a few times and it would work again. It worked fine in out, just not in. I had to slap it a lot to get it to finish spooling. Its a loose wire in the remote.
2. The remote socket, in the solenoid housing looked a bit weak, crumbly, when I installed it, but felt fine. Amazon reviews said this was a weak spot. Now, the entire socket seems to be broken and sliding out.
I purchased this winch in March.
Sent Smittybilt an email. No additional questions asked, they are sending a new housing and a new remote. Its on back order, but should ship in 2-3 weeks. I hope it was that easy!
UPDATE: New cover and new remote delivered! Very happy.
Came home and un-spooled, cleaned and oiled wire. When doing this two things happened.
1. The wired remote would stop working. I would slap the remote a few times and it would work again. It worked fine in out, just not in. I had to slap it a lot to get it to finish spooling. Its a loose wire in the remote.
2. The remote socket, in the solenoid housing looked a bit weak, crumbly, when I installed it, but felt fine. Amazon reviews said this was a weak spot. Now, the entire socket seems to be broken and sliding out.
I purchased this winch in March.
Sent Smittybilt an email. No additional questions asked, they are sending a new housing and a new remote. Its on back order, but should ship in 2-3 weeks. I hope it was that easy!
UPDATE: New cover and new remote delivered! Very happy.
Last edited:
Replacing the battery cables. My negative terminal clamp is physically breaking a part.
Order Summary
Order Summary
S2BK-36IN-38 2 Gauge AWG Extreme Battery Cable with Ends Color: Black Length (hole center to hole center): 36 inch Cable Ends Options: 3/8 lug both ends | $13.05 x 1 | $13.05 | |
S4RD-12IN-56-38 4 Gauge AWG Extreme Battery Cable with Ends Color: Red Length (hole center to hole center): 12 inch Cable Ends Options: 5/16 lug one side 3/8 lug other side | $5.96 x 1 | $5.96 | |
S6BK-48IN-38 6 Gauge AWG Extreme Battery Cable with Ends Color: Black Length (hole center to hole center): 48 inch Cable Ends Options: 3/8 lug both ends | $8.68 x 1 | $8.68 | |
S2RD-36IN-56-38 2 Gauge AWG Extreme Battery Cable with Ends Color: Red Length (hole center to hole center): 36 inch Cable Ends Options: 5/16 lug one side 3/8 lug other side | $13.05 x 1 | $13.05 | |
ADPT-MIL-PAIR Military Ordnance Style Battery Terminal Adapter - Top Post to Stud Pair or Individual: Pair with POS & NEG | $9.94 x 1 | $9.94 | |
466N9-PR Military Ordnance Style Battery Terminal Adapter Boot Covers Single or Pair: Pair (Black & Red) | $7.79 x 1 | $7.79 | |
222E3V02 Lug & Ring Terminal Boot Covers Medium 1/0 , 1, 2, 4 or 6 awg Single or Pair: Red Single Boot | $1.99 x 1 | $1.99 | |
Turdworlder
TJ Enthusiast
The Jeep? I am not exactly sure its history. I think, it was well used (stock) in Michigan for 10 years, then stored in a garage for 10 years. It has a replacement hood and I think that it was in an accident that destroyed the hard top.
Someone locally purchased it from the guy who stored it, and he did quite a bit of work to get it road worthy again.
It has 118,000 miles now, and I have replaced a ton, but overall its pretty good. It has plenty of rust, but its not too bad... especially for Michigan.
Anyone want to run a Carfax for me?
One idea for a recovery item in lieu of a winch is a Hi-Lift jack. Dual purpose, as you can use it as a jack as well as use it for recovery purposes. Tons of vids on this out there.
Appreciate the info. I did end up with a winch. My challenge with the hi-lift as a come along is the chain that is required. Watching videos of the method, the length and size of chain required is more than I can bring with me, and seems like a lot of weight for little use... I think you could use a static winch rope and chain, but the cost of all of that equaled my winch...
So, not sure why all the no-door mirror sets stick so far out. Felt like I was going to take out the drive thru ladies arm because the mirror stuck so far out.
Purchased these for around $20
Rugged Ridge Quick Release Round Mirrors
Cut and re-drilled:
Work pretty good:
Purchased these for around $20
Rugged Ridge Quick Release Round Mirrors
Cut and re-drilled:
Work pretty good:
Fun to see this. I have the same year and same interior, different exterior.
If you've discovered any quirks of the 97 model along the way, come mention them here.
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