2006 TJ 4.0 misfire issues

This is some great information, I have ordered another Crankshaft position sensor which is Mopar product, and a camshaft position sensor. along with that I have spark plugs coming as well. when they come in I will install using care and ensuring clean connectors. hopefully that will solve the issue, I will post when it is done. Are there any way to determine if my OPDA is original or replacement?
 
Cajun001 said:
This is some great information, I have ordered another Crankshaft position sensor which is Mopar product, and a camshaft position sensor. along with that I have spark plugs coming as well. when they come in I will install using care and ensuring clean connectors. hopefully that will solve the issue, I will post when it is done. Are there any way to determine if my OPDA is original or replacement?
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Yes Cajun--There definitely is a way to tell if the OPDA is factory original-— it is on one of the threads I read back 3-4 years ago when I was changing mine out. I don't have time to search and find it right now since I am at work--perhaps someone will chime in-—-
 
Unfortunately I’m not familiar with how to identify the OPDA model. I know when they begin to fail, you can remove the cover and often see metal shavings inside the synchronizer. They also make a loud noise when they fail often described as “angry sparrows”
 
If no one finds the link by nightfall then i will pull my old one off the shelf at home (kept it so I knew where the spare CPS was) and take a picture of the housing number that had the OEM number stamped in it.
 
when all my parts on order show up I plan to remove the cover on the OPDA to see if there is indication of wear, have not heard any angry sparrows or howling monkeys. I did do a quick glance at the OPDA and on the tag with numbers on it, it started with the letters LDI and then some numbers.
so the next question is this. When all parts are in and if all is right, will the check engine light go off and the codes clear?
 
Generally the issue will immediately go away and you will be able to drive normally. The CEL will stay lit for a certain number of drive cycles, and then go away. You can also clear it with a scanner.
 
My CPS code went away right after, but the misfire codes didn't go away until I reset the PCM. I have an 04 that uses the older OPDA, so yours may behave differently.

The most important aspect of installing the new OPDA is to ensure that you install it so that you don't alter the timing. Take your time and make sure that it's aligned correctly. Mine turned out fine, but it felt like a Mission Impossible moment when I turned the new one in :oops:
 
Here you go —-the original OPDA

IMG_2840 (1).JPG
 
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Cajun001 said:
well then I have the original one in. Thanks for sharing
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You are welcome- At least you know that 1) the previous owner was not having problems and had already switched it out with possible cam gear wear. and 2) You likely have the OEM CPS in it-- I put my original CPS back in and kept the Crown one as a spare.
 
ok, this could be the super noob question. I have watched a couple videos on crankshaft position sensor location and replacement. it shows the sensor on driver side top of transmission bell. but the sensor it is showing does not look like the one I have. the one in the video has a wire harness, mine does not. the only sensor I can find on the transmission bell that looks like the one I got is on the passenger side and is an exact match. is the 2006 sensor different than the 98'. mine is an automatic.
 
Cajun001 said:
ok, this could be the super noob question. I have watched a couple videos on crankshaft position sensor location and replacement. it shows the sensor on driver side top of transmission bell. but the sensor it is showing does not look like the one I have. the one in the video has a wire harness, mine does not. the only sensor I can find on the transmission bell that looks like the one I got is on the passenger side and is an exact match. is the 2006 sensor different than the 98'. mine is an automatic.
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Yes, the sensor is on the passenger side.
 
X2 to the above advice to to reinstall the OEM camshaft position sensor when you install the OPDA kit. Try to avoid store-brand sensors in the future, especially the junk Duralast brand from Autozone which is the work of the devil.

When you pull your plugs, post up what your current spark plug brand and model # is. Some technologies of spark plugs are known to cause misfires in ignition systems like are used in 2001 and newer TJs. Two examples of plugs that could cause misfires include the Champion 3034 and the Autolite AP-985. The above recommended Autolite XP-985 you ordered is a great choice of spark plug for our TJs, it's what I run in my '04.

Good luck with this.
 
OK, had a little time to change out parts, swapped out plugs, old plugs were champion RC12CC, new plugs autolite XP-985, had bought the new ignition coil so heck changed it as well. replaced the Autozone Crankshaft position sensor with the new Mopar sensor from RockAuto. reminder the current code I have are 300, 339, and i think 344. random misfire, crankshaft sensor, and camshaft sensor. hooked up battery and started jeep no issues. went forward and reverse several times to let engine warm up. shut down jeep for about 15 minutes and then started and went up and down drive fwd, and rev. shut down again. 15 min later drove around neighbor hood for a couple miles at around 25 - 30 mph. then went on hwy up to 56 -60 mph for about 5 miles no issues. pulled up to my drive way and decided to back her in. put jeep in reverse gave it a little gas and in stuttered, I released gas and it resumed idle, gave gas again and stuttered and check engine light came on, while in reverse and engine idling i backed into driveway. checked the code for the engine light and it showed 339 crankshaft position sensor. put it back into drive and drove on hwy again for a mile turned around and when driving back it had a slight stutter again so i dropped back to about 40 mph and went home, same code 339. I have not ordered an OPDA yet, can that be my issue??????
 
Cajun001 said:
OK, had a little time to change out parts, swapped out plugs, old plugs were champion RC12CC, new plugs autolite XP-985, had bought the new ignition coil so heck changed it as well. replaced the Autozone Crankshaft position sensor with the new Mopar sensor from RockAuto. reminder the current code I have are 300, 339, and i think 344. random misfire, crankshaft sensor, and camshaft sensor. hooked up battery and started jeep no issues. went forward and reverse several times to let engine warm up. shut down jeep for about 15 minutes and then started and went up and down drive fwd, and rev. shut down again. 15 min later drove around neighbor hood for a couple miles at around 25 - 30 mph. then went on hwy up to 56 -60 mph for about 5 miles no issues. pulled up to my drive way and decided to back her in. put jeep in reverse gave it a little gas and in stuttered, I released gas and it resumed idle, gave gas again and stuttered and check engine light came on, while in reverse and engine idling i backed into driveway. checked the code for the engine light and it showed 339 crankshaft position sensor. put it back into drive and drove on hwy again for a mile turned around and when driving back it had a slight stutter again so i dropped back to about 40 mph and went home, same code 339. I have not ordered an OPDA yet, can that be my issue??????
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Hi Cajun,

There is hope at the end of the tunnel.

The 300 code is likely related to the CKP sensor and or the CMP sensor. The more likely candidate being the CMP sensor. A misfire DTC 300 can cause the money light to flash after the key is turned on for approx. 2 seconds and the light will flash 10 times but if the prior owner reset the computer the money light will also flash until the computer is able to complete the smog test procedure. That test will take at least 30 minutes of driving with no codes.

The after market OPDA don't meet OEM specs. The same is true for after market CMP sensors. If you are going to go the aftermarket route it is best to find a shop that has a Picoscope that can verify the CMP sensor wave form against a known good one and a bi-direction scan tool that do the relearn procedure. Some guys get lucky and just stick a Chinesium OPDA/CMP sensor in and all is well. More guys are like you and end up spending a fortune on parts and never cure the problem.

There is a cure out there but it is better left to the pros to handle. The cost of the parts you have already spent would have more than paid for what a good mechanic would have cost.
 
And the troubles continue, I have changed the Crankshaft position sensor twice, first (auto zone) than (Mopar), changed Cam shaft position sensor (rock auto henson) changed plugs because there was definite wear on old ones. used autolite XP-985. prior to installing the cam shaft sensor I disconnected the battery installed sensor reconnected the battery and started jeep. idled around 750 RPM let sit for 10 -12 min to let it come up to operating temp. put in drive and away I went. drove about 3-4 miles on hwy at varying speeds up to 60mph. no issues came back home and attempted to back into driveway and as soon as I gave it a little gas it stuttered, I let off the gas and it went to idle and was able to back up while idle. so back in drive again on the hwy got about 1mile from house doing about 55mph and it stuttered like it trying to shut down, backed off of gas turned around and drove home at about 40 mph below 1500-1700 rpm the tach did drop out to about 500 while doing about 30 but came back up. no codes pop up but it think it was because I let off gas at first sign of engine stutter. It appears that all is fine until everything is warm, as I said I was at about 7-9 miles into drive after I let it warm up for 10 - 12 mins in driveway. I am at a loss, I guess I will have to bring it to my local mechanic that I trust. I really wanted to do this myself.
 
Cajun001 said:
And the troubles continue, I have changed the Crankshaft position sensor twice, first (auto zone) than (Mopar), changed Cam shaft position sensor (rock auto henson) changed plugs because there was definite wear on old ones. used autolite XP-985. prior to installing the cam shaft sensor I disconnected the battery installed sensor reconnected the battery and started jeep. idled around 750 RPM let sit for 10 -12 min to let it come up to operating temp. put in drive and away I went. drove about 3-4 miles on hwy at varying speeds up to 60mph. no issues came back home and attempted to back into driveway and as soon as I gave it a little gas it stuttered, I let off the gas and it went to idle and was able to back up while idle. so back in drive again on the hwy got about 1mile from house doing about 55mph and it stuttered like it trying to shut down, backed off of gas turned around and drove home at about 40 mph below 1500-1700 rpm the tach did drop out to about 500 while doing about 30 but came back up. no codes pop up but it think it was because I let off gas at first sign of engine stutter. It appears that all is fine until everything is warm, as I said I was at about 7-9 miles into drive after I let it warm up for 10 - 12 mins in driveway. I am at a loss, I guess I will have to bring it to my local mechanic that I trust. I really wanted to do this myself.
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Been down this road before. Took my LJ to local shop whom said they could do the crank/cam sensor relearn procedure. Turned out all they had was a Snap-on scan tool that could only synch the two sensors but not clear the PCM of the old relationship. Ended up taking it to the dealer and they did the relearn in about 2 minutes.

Make sure whomever you take your Jeep to has a DBR 3 scan tool or emulator.
 
keep seeing replies about the DBR3 scan tool, I will check on that before I bring it to the shop.Thanks I will post as soon as I can, here's wishing all will be well soon.
 
Steel City 06 said:
P0300 indicates random misfires that aren't specific to any cylinder.
Typically when you have a bad spark plug, it will misfire on one cylinder only. If Cylinder 4 was misfiring consistently, for example, you would get P0304. The last digit indicates which cylinder is misfiring. In the case of P0300, the misfiring is in multiple cylinders with no discernible (to the computer) pattern. A bad coil generally shows up on two cylinders.

So I wouldn't spend money on a coil just yet. Plugs are probably a good idea but are likely unrelated to your issue. You can try a coil but I suspect it's unrelated.

I would try the camshaft position sensor next. Perhaps pick up a different brand of crankshaft position sensor at the same time, in case that doesn't work.

Your codes are related to ignition timing, so it's likely either the camshaft sensor or crankshaft sensor not operating properly, or them being so far out of alignment the engine can't adjust, a bad connection or wire, or less likely a PCM issue.

When you replace either or both, be sure to thoroughly clean off the connectors. Any dirt in the connections can cause issues.
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So I owe Steel City big thanks!!!! I replaced Crankshaft position sensor, Camshaft position sensor, and I was still having issues, thought it might need sensor relearn, my local mechanic had the DBR3 and did the relearn still had issues. so I went back to the basics. checked all grounds and cleaned them and then decided to look at the sensor connectors. In my haste I thought I cleaned both sides of the sensor / wire harness connectors. went back and realized that the crankshaft position sensor electrical connector was not fully engaged and locked in place, upon closer inspection there was a small amount of dirt in the seat of the female side, once I cleaned it out the connect was able to lock in place and every thing worked as designed. I would have never went back and checked if it wasn't for Steel city comment about ensuring to clean the connectors. Thanks Steel City!!!
 
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