Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Need help passing emissions in my TJ

DizzyRoc

New Member
Original poster
Joined
Oct 3, 2018
Messages
20
Location
Georgia
Ive been creeping on this forum for a good minute but never joined because I had a cj7 and that one is exempt. Always been a fan of jeeps but my fiance was just given a tj from her parents (03' sport) that from what ive seen is has a common emissions code. However all the pictures and manual i was given shows it in different configurations.

my questions... all the pics ive seen about the motor are basically backwards. and the charcoal canister is above the gas tank as opposed to next to it.

im throwing codes P0455 and P0442

i did a smoke test and found where my leaks are at but im not familiar with the locations.
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I apologize in advance for repeat posts/pictures .... the pictures that are coming from underneath the car are on the passenger side between the exhaust pipe and the gas tank which looks like it has an electrical loom on it but smoke is pouring out of it...

It looks like something I have to drop the tank for.....

do you guys have any advice or suggestions on this subject before i start taking things apart and replacing things i didnt need
 
It sounds like someone gave you a Chilton's or similar book which is worse than useless since it gives so much incorrect information. In later models of TJs, the leak detection pump system is located up inside the passenger-side rear tub corner next to the gas tank, in a very difficult location to work on. You gain most of the access to it up through the bottom above the flap that covers the bottom. I'd expect you'll end up having to drop the tank to get to everything possibly causing the problem. And how's the gas cap? It's a common source of a leak that can stop it from passing smog.

These are out of the 2004 Mopar Factory Service Manual and Mopar Parts Manual Guide. The drawings may help show the complexity of what you're troubleshooting, especially the spaghetti on top of the gas tank. Good luck with it.

LEAK DETECTION PUMP MONITOR (IF EQUIPPED)
The leak detection assembly incorporates two pri-
mary functions: it must detect a leak in the evapora-
tive system and seal the evaporative system so the
leak detection test can be run.
The primary components within the assembly are:
A three port solenoid that activates both of the func-
tions listed above; a pump which contains a switch,
two check valves and a spring/diaphragm, a canister
vent valve (CVV) seal which contains a spring loaded
vent seal valve.
Immediately after a cold start, between predeter-
mined temperature thresholds limits, the three port
solenoid is briefly energized. This initializes the
pump by drawing air into the pump cavity and also
closes the vent seal. During non test conditions the
vent seal is held open by the pump diaphragm
assembly which pushes it open at the full travel posi-
tion. The vent seal will remain closed while the
pump is cycling due to the reed switch triggering of
the three port solenoid that prevents the diaphragm
assembly from reaching full travel. After the brief
initialization period, the solenoid is de-energized
allowing atmospheric pressure to enter the pump
cavity, thus permitting the spring to drive the dia-
phragm which forces air out of the pump cavity and
into the vent system. When the solenoid is energized
and de energized, the cycle is repeated creating flow
in typical diaphragm pump fashion. The pump is con-
trolled in 2 modes:
Pump Mode: The pump is cycled at a fixed rate to
achieve a rapid pressure build in order to shorten the
overall test length.
Test Mode: The solenoid is energized with a fixed
duration pulse. Subsequent fixed pulses occur when
the diaphragm reaches the Switch closure point.
The spring in the pump is set so that the system
will achieve an equalized pressure of about 7.5”
water. The cycle rate of pump strokes is quite rapid
as the system begins to pump up to this pressure. As
the pressure increases, the cycle rate starts to drop
off. If there is no leak in the system, the pump would
eventually stop pumping at the equalized pressure. If
there is a leak, it will continue to pump at a rate rep-
resentative of the flow characteristic of the size of the
leak. From this information we can determine if the
leak is larger than the required detection limit (cur-
rently set at .040” orifice by CARB). If a leak is
revealed during the leak test portion of the test, the
test is terminated at the end of the test mode and no
further system checks will be performed.
After passing the leak detection phase of the test,
system pressure is maintained by turning on the
LDP’s solenoid until the purge system is activated.
Purge activation in effect creates a leak. The cycle
rate is again interrogated and when it increases due
to the flow through the purge system, the leak check
portion of the diagnostic is complete.
The canister vent valve will unseal the system
after completion of the test sequence as the pump
diaphragm assembly moves to the full travel position.
Evaporative system functionality will be verified by
using the stricter evap purge flow monitor. At an
appropriate warm idle the LDP will be energized to
seal the canister vent. The purge flow will be clocked
up from some small value in an attempt to see a
shift in the 02 control system. If fuel vapor, indicated
by a shift in the 02 control, is present the test is
passed. If not, it is assumed that the purge system is
not functioning in some respect. The LDP is again
turned off and the test is ended.

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Vacuum 3.JPG
Tank.JPG
 
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Thanks Jerry I've seen some of your posts and am thankful you saw mine. My leak monitor is in the engine bay on the driver side. Thats where i fed the smoke in to be able to find the leaks. For my other cars I have Helms manuals and they have always been accurate for the TJ I was given a Haynes manual and that one has been all over the place .... even the directions to remove the rear seat were wrong.
 
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Can anyone identify that hose that is leaking (the one wrapped in wire loom). I'm going thru the manual/parts list and have either over looked it or cant find the part number
 
I think I got it narrowed down to the hose between the check valve and fuel management valve. Dealership is saying they only sell the bundle (#5210-0491-AD). I wont be able to go in until tomorrow to see what all is included with that.
 
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ps... anybody that has questions about the "smoke tester" can pm me. it was made of a glass jar, a soldering iron and some baby oil but it did its job under 10 bucks
How did you make the smoke tester I’m getting the same codes you did. Where do you put the smoke in as well or where is it fed through. I need to pass smog !!
 
Sorry for lack of updates. Pcleaners2 if you still need help with that pm me and ill help walk you through.

I was going to make a write up on it but i was out of country
 
I got a smoke tester on eBay and there’s a leak at one of the elbows. I replaced the elbow today and now I’m just waiting for the monitors to go through there thing after unhooking battery. Tried to clear code but Jeep refusedwhich was weird. Also had a crack in gas tank nipple at the evap line on driver side. Fixed that too. Hope after the evap monitor resets , the light will stay off
 
How did you make the smoke tester I’m getting the same codes you did. Where do you put the smoke in as well or where is it fed through. I need to pass smog !!
Here is a cheap smoke tester, a liquid transfer pump from Harbor Freight, and a cigar.
I used this on both my 4.0.and 2.5 and it worked great
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..be sure to stuff a shop rag in the tailpipe and i used a rubber end cap I found in the garage to stop up the throttle body
 
Where do you put the smoke in. At brake booster or purge solenoid ? I’m still having trouble with p0442 code after finding leak. I did disconnect battery too . I’m so pissed. I’m about to replace everything all valves and canister cuz I don’t know what to do. Have until April 6 retest
 
Where do you put the smoke in. At brake booster or purge solenoid ? I’m still having trouble with p0442 code after finding leak. I did disconnect battery too . I’m so pissed. I’m about to replace everything all valves and canister cuz I don’t know what to do. Have until April 6 retest
I unplugged the brake booster hose and used the fitting on the intake manifold, here's a pic..
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Be sure to plug the tailpipe and throttle body, I used a shop rag
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts