Contact Heather at http://www.boulderbars.com/contactus.htm she said they had about 15-20 left in stock. Price including UPS shipping was $28.50 to Utah. Tim
Nth Degree LCA mount drill templates (found some in stock)
- Thread starter astjp2
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Their stock of Nth stuff is clearing fast. They had a handling improvement kit when I emailed them and it is gone now.
Well I got my template, but the instructions were not included. They did email me a set of pics of the instructions, here they are...
mikalcarbine
Member
I stumbled on these last week and have been doing a little research since but haven't come up with much. User feedback seems generally positive. I wanted to play with the 3 link calculator to see how moving the arms affects an already lifted short arm TJ. Maybe some suspension experts can chime in, @mrblaine what do you think?
FYI the Nth website says they have 11 in stock, not sure of the accuracy
https://www.nthdegreemobility.com/lower_control_arm_re_drill_template
FYI the Nth website says they have 11 in stock, not sure of the accuracy
https://www.nthdegreemobility.com/lower_control_arm_re_drill_template
mikalcarbine
Member
After reading the first page of the instructions it says that this shouldn't be installed without their "handling improvement kit" which relocates the rear upper arms, otherwise the anti squat and other numbers will be off. Can't seem to find any pictures of what that kit looks like.
So, lets get some resources together...I can make a model of the drill template, if someone wants to give me dimensions or send it to me after they are done with it.
We need the details on the "handling Kit" that is required...
We need the details on the "handling Kit" that is required...
Here is the upper information for the rears...It raises the upper to approximately 7" above the tube. I would like to see what you get on the calculator. I have been spending wayyy to much time on researching this. My jeep is buried in the snow that I want to do this to. I am also going to do d-44's so I need to buy brackets but no one has the dimensions for the factory bracket. I have not figured out if the uppers and lowers are 10 degrees, 22 degrees, etc. any info would be appreciated.
You can call boulder bars and order your own bracket, its under 30 including shipping, which is cheap in the jeeping world.
Oh and Blackjack has been very patient with me on answering questions, he did the conversion a few years ago.
Tim
You can call boulder bars and order your own bracket, its under 30 including shipping, which is cheap in the jeeping world.
Oh and Blackjack has been very patient with me on answering questions, he did the conversion a few years ago.
Tim
If I'm reading this correctly, the frame side lowers are lowered some amount, then the axle side uppers are raised some amount. Correct?
mikalcarbine
Member
Frame LCA lowered
Axle LCA raised
Axle UCA raised (how much determined by a few things in the table on the instructions)
It doesn't say anything about the frame side UCA mounts. I had my suspicions that raising the axle UCA brackets would cause clearance issues, if you read the manual fully it states you need minimum 3" of bumpstop extensions in the back for the extended brackets to clear the tub. Deal breaker for me, I'm planning on getting rid of my bumpstop extensions in the future by outboarding
I'll still try to load up some numbers into the 3 link calculator this weekend but I suspect moving just the lowers will have adverse effects, explaining why this isn't a popular mod. I also never thought much about trackbar bracket relocation until reading the pages in that PDF. I'll have to do a little reading on roll center as well
Axle LCA raised
Axle UCA raised (how much determined by a few things in the table on the instructions)
It doesn't say anything about the frame side UCA mounts. I had my suspicions that raising the axle UCA brackets would cause clearance issues, if you read the manual fully it states you need minimum 3" of bumpstop extensions in the back for the extended brackets to clear the tub. Deal breaker for me, I'm planning on getting rid of my bumpstop extensions in the future by outboarding
I'll still try to load up some numbers into the 3 link calculator this weekend but I suspect moving just the lowers will have adverse effects, explaining why this isn't a popular mod. I also never thought much about trackbar bracket relocation until reading the pages in that PDF. I'll have to do a little reading on roll center as well
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Yes, flattens out the lower, raises upper in back by 3”
we’ll i think that you need to do actual travel up and down to see what you really have and what you need for bump stops, if you have a body lift or any other mods, you may only need an inch or none, I just know that the people who have done it really like how they handle when on a climb, supposedly no squat and plenty of flex. I am going to try it on my lj and see what happens
mikalcarbine
Member
I know my shocks are my limiting factor in the rear, with those out of the equation I should be able to reach full bump.
The people you know who have done it, did they use the upper relocation brackets?
As far as changes to or effects of moving the other mount points? The frame side uppers do not change.
This one really intrigues me...I'm not going to get to it for a while, but I may start trying to piece together a design...
My goal is to go 3" lift and 10" (or more) of travel. 35's and Highlines of some sort. Been looking at the design of the AEV front fenders...I think I can pop the spot welds from the inner to outer fenders, move things around and add material, and create my own steel highlines. Just ideas rattling around in my head right now though.
My goal is to go 3" lift and 10" (or more) of travel. 35's and Highlines of some sort. Been looking at the design of the AEV front fenders...I think I can pop the spot welds from the inner to outer fenders, move things around and add material, and create my own steel highlines. Just ideas rattling around in my head right now though.
Missed this. The frame side lower mount is moved 1 1/8 down, the axle side lower is raised 1 5/8 and the axle upper is moved 2.5 or 3.5 inches.
If you move the axle side lower up at all you must move the axle side upper up or you will create issues by a lack of separation of the link mounting points.
The reason for the instructions calling for 3" extensions were partly based on there not having a body lift installed. Even doing outboard shocks you may still need to add extensions to the bump stops to prevent coil bind.
So I am curious to find out what your results were on the calculator...some people with the Nth long arm say that they get hop when going up hill, I had thought that this design was supposed to be more stable...and I dont know enough to be able to use the calculator to get accurate results...Tim
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