Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

JL/JT Axle Swap Details

Rickstar321

Rickstar321

TJ Enthusiast
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Mar 21, 2022
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TIPs for JL/JT Axle Swap: I've decided to modify the original post to include questions and answers as I work through everything.

Current questions:
1) Which Axles?
Mine: Front - 2023 Max Tow JT (Price was right). Dana 44 (M210), same width (67.9") as the Rubi but missing the locker.
Rear - 2022 Rubicon Dana 44 (M220) with OEM 4:88 gears and the OEM electric locker.
Gearing?: Mine 4:88 when I match the front to the back.
Most desired: 2024+ Gen 3 Rubicon 392 Axles. Thicker walled, stronger housing, and the rear is a full float, geared 4:88 from factory.

2) Control Arms?
Mine: Genright Legend Double Triangulated 4-Link rear / 3-Link Front.
Options:
TJ OEM - I wouldn't.
Mid Arm - Lots of options! (Let me know what you did pros / cons!)
Disadvantage: Lower frame bracket locations.
Long Arm - Lots of options! (Let me know what you did pros / cons!)
*Single Triangulated
*Double Triangulated
Side Option that is currently working well on my TJ with stock TJR axles is to use JL/JT oem control arms, works very well like a mid arm. You will need to move the frame brackets but to me was well worth the work.

3) Axle Truss? Yes or No?
Mine - Yes - Artec JL/JT to TJ Swap kit
- Lots of other options! (Let me know what you did pros / cons!)
12.09.25 Note: Discovered the Artec JL to TJ swap truss puts the coil perch in the stock TJ location so we lose the 1-1/2" stretch with their kit as is. I called their tech line was told I was the first person to request a bracket with the coil perch centered on the axle. (to me it's a no brainer free 1-1/2" front stretch).
I can order their "Ultimate Coil Bracket" to recenter it but not guaranteed to fit with the kit. I'll post what I decide later.

4) FAD, keep or delete?
Mine: I'm keeping since I'm going to RCV's, get the on road benefits (vibration mitigation, MPG's) and I'm not seeing reports of failures.

5) Coils and shocks / Coilovers?

6) Steering Components?
Tie Rod: Mine- Steer Smarts
Drag Link:
Trackbar:

7) Rear Brakes?
Disc brake lines - how?
E-brake cables - how?

8) Knuckles?

9) Axle shafts? One piece or two? RCVs?
 Mine: RCV's keeping the FAD.

10) Drive Shafts?
Mine: Currently Adams 1350's. I will send them back to Adam's for any needed adjustments.

11) Ball joints? Deletes?

12) Wheels?
 Mine: Current plan is JLR take offs.

13) Tires?
 Mine: 38" NItto Trail Graps

14) Lockers? Stock or After-market?
Mine: OEM, will need to drill the front diff to fit connector for OEM locker I picked up on FB Market.

=============================================================================================================

I am sure there will be lots more questions as I go.

Also... if you know of any tips or "watch out for"s... please share!


JL Axles.webp


tj-dana-44-front-locking.webp
 
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I’d consider snagging a aftermarket housing that has Cs rotated for caster and the FAD eliminated.

Don’t use artec, when I used it it places springs in wrong spot and terrible trackbar connections. You’ll want to move the spring back, centered enough that you can pass a full length trackbar past the front of the springs. Get a flat pitman. Outboard your shocks at the same time.

I cut everything off after my JK swap and redid it with coilovers.
 
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Rick, If you want to make a list/diagram of the measurements you’d like, I’ll break out the tape measure for you tonight.

The front Cs are set for 6 degree caster with a level pinion.

I don’t think I’ve seen a straight track bar or drag link on any setup.

Some random clearance shots from the front with JL factory link bracket locations.

IMG_0478.jpeg


IMG_0477.jpeg


IMG_0486.jpeg


IMG_0129.png


IMG_0128.png


IMG_9968.jpeg


IMG_9967.jpeg


IMG_9082.jpeg


IMG_8500.jpeg
 
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GATORB8 said:
Rick, If you want to make a list/diagram of the measurements you’d like, I’ll break out the tape measure for you tonight.

The front Cs are set for 6 degree caster with a level pinion.

I don’t think I’ve seen a straight track bar or drag link on any setup.

Some random clearance shots from the front with JL factory link bracket locations.

View attachment 648160

View attachment 648161

View attachment 648162

View attachment 648168

View attachment 648169

View attachment 648170

View attachment 648171

View attachment 648172

View attachment 648173
Click to expand...
Awesome Pics and information... sorry just now seeing this, drove 6-1/2 hours there and then back again to get the rear axle.

note: My front track bar frame side mount has been moved several inches fwd from the WJ knuckle swap, and my rear track bar is moved 5 ish inches back for the rear.
 
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GATORB8 said:
Rick, If you want to make a list/diagram of the measurements you’d like, I’ll break out the tape measure for you tonight.

The front Cs are set for 6 degree caster with a level pinion.

I don’t think I’ve seen a straight track bar or drag link on any setup.

Some random clearance shots from the front with JL factory link bracket locations.

======================================================================================

View attachment 648171
Click to expand...

Awesome pics by the way... thanks... I'm curious if there is a kit that moves the shock mounts up out of the way... I'l most likely out board the shocks but would also love to pull them up even with the axle.
 
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Rickstar321 said:
Awesome pics by the way... thanks... I'm curious if there is a kit that moves the shock mounts up out of the way... I'l most likely out board the shocks but would also love to pull them up even with the axle.
Click to expand...

Yes, although I assume you'll be chopping at least some of them off.

I have Metalcloak outboard brackets on the front which bolt to the stock shock mounts and move the shock lowers ~1.5" out and up, and rotate them 90 degrees so they rotate with the upper:
https://metalcloak.com/outboard-shock-mount-spacer-relocation-kit-jl-lower-front.html

Mine are stock in the rear, since it's hard to find a shorter shock that doesn't compromise shock travel, but there are a couple easy options to move the axle side up:
https://metalcloak.com/shock-relocation-clearance-kit-jl-lower-rear.html
 
1760968232142.png

So here is what I want to change with this JL/JT axle swap I'm getting ready to do. The only thing (and it's significant) I am unhappy about with the "Gladiator control arm" experiment is where I had to put the Lower frame brackets. I want to fix that when I put the JT axles in.

Also there is a significant hang down of the shock mounts on the JL/JT's I want to correct for my build.
1760969791069.png
JK Gear and Gadgets (youtube) did a couple vids on high clearance axle and frame mounts that I'm looking at adapting to my situation.

Outta Hand JK frame mounts: Thinking since the JT axle I have is a wide track, I think I should be about to outboard these control arm frame mounts... and If I find my body mounts are in the way, I've already planned to go to the Genright 1" body mounts anyway, and I can adapt them to fit if needed.
1760969956208.png
1760973044131.png
1760972522543.png


This is the Outta Hand Fab high clearance JK axle mounts, may look at adapting these as well.
1760972768116.png
1760972794195.png


Barnes makes some stuff I'm looking at as well.

Not looking for everyone to tell me I can't do it... lol... I'm looking to figure out how to make it work. I understand with everything there is give and take... I know some of my suspension geometry may have to be compromised on but... looking to find the "happy" spot where everything get's a little love :-)... A little bit of squat won't bother me on road as long as it doesn't pull me off the line off road...

... and if all of this turns into a hot steaming pile of shite... I can always just go 3-link / Triangulated 4-link. I was just trying to avoid that until I do the Genright TJ to LJ stretch.

Here is how theirs turned out...
1760976897645.png
 
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Rickstar321 said:
View attachment 650332
So here is what I want to change with this JL/JT axle swap I'm getting ready to do. The only thing (and it's significant) I am unhappy about with the "Gladiator control arm" experiment is where I had to put the Lower frame brackets. I want to fix that when I put the JT axles in.

Also there is a significant hang down of the shock mounts on the JL/JT's I want to correct for my build.
View attachment 650335JK Gear and Gadgets (youtube) did a couple vids on high clearance axle and frame mounts that I'm looking at adapting to my situation.

Outta Hand JK frame mounts: Thinking since the JT axle I have is a wide track, I think I should be about to outboard these control arm frame mounts... and If I find my body mounts are in the way, I've already planned to go to the Genright 1" body mounts anyway, and I can adapt them to fit if needed.
View attachment 650336View attachment 650347View attachment 650343

This is the Outta Hand Fab high clearance JK axle mounts, may look at adapting these as well.
View attachment 650345View attachment 650346

Barnes makes some stuff I'm looking at as well.

Not looking for everyone to tell me I can't do it... lol... I'm looking to figure out how to make it work. I understand with everything there is give and take... I know some of my suspension geometry may have to be compromised on but... looking to find the "happy" spot where everything get's a little love :-)... A little bit of squat won't bother me on road as long as it doesn't pull me off the line off road...

... and if all of this turns into a hot steaming pile of shite... I can always just go 3-link / Triangulated 4-link. I was just trying to avoid that until I do the Genright TJ to LJ stretch.

Here is how theirs turned out... View attachment 650377
Click to expand...

You are staying coil/shock?

Before you jump to relocate the rear axle side shock mounts, I'd look at how high you can get your frame side shock mounts. The factory JL rear mounts are outboard and above the frame, but other than something freaky like 6Paks, you still need that low shock mount to fit the most travel possible. You don't want to sacrifice inches of shock travel just for the mounts that you can skid anyway.

I'm running 13.14" stroke 5160s in the rear in the stock mounts both sides. Those are 18.72" Compressed and 31.86" Extended, I've got about an inch of shaft stuffed to bumps, which is within a whisper of trimmed tub sheet metal.

Pulling some dims from the JL shock calculator, OEM mounts are 37" separation front, 46.5" rear. The front are near vertical, but the rear are at a significant angle. The calculator shows that it's approximately 11" of mount difference at ride height (i.e. the JL frame side shock mounts are horizontally 11" rearward of the axle side shock mounts).

I believe the JT rear CAs are a tad longer than the JLs.

This is what my rear setup looks like in flex:

IMG_0487 (2).jpg


IMG_0480 (1).jpg
 
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Yes, staying coil and shocks for now, but looking at outboarding the rear shocks.

The more I study all of this the more I've almost decided to just go ahead and go long arm. Everything else would be the same except DOM lengths when I do the TJ to LJ stretch....

My pet gladiator control arm experiment is starting to be in conflict with my real project... :)
 
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GATORB8 said:
Before you jump to relocate the rear axle side shock mounts, I'd look at how high you can get your frame side shock mounts. The factory JL rear mounts are outboard and above the frame
Click to expand...

Yeah, that's part of it... but I was hoping with outboarding them I'd be able to go up high enough to keep all the travel needed.
 
Rickstar321 said:
Yes, staying coil and shocks for now, but looking at outboarding the rear shocks.

The more I study all of this the more I've almost decided to just go ahead and go long arm. Everything else would be the same except DOM lengths when I do the TJ to LJ stretch....

My pet gladiator control arm experiment is starting to be in conflict with my real project... :)
Click to expand...

Man, if you are talking about moving frame and axle side brackets for everything, definitely makes sense to go ahead and make the move to 3/4 link.
 
Rickstar321 said:
Yeah, that's part of it... but I was hoping with outboarding them I'd be able to go up high enough to keep all the travel needed.
Click to expand...

You can see that work I did with the rear coilovers in my build thread recently, yes it’s possible to move the mounts up when you outboard and 12” shocks or COs can fit without mounting through the body.
 
Rickstar321 said:
Welp... Decided to do this instead... it's only money... lol...

View attachment 650755
Click to expand...

You’ll probably appreciate having the 4 link when you outboard and tuck your shocks in, the axle won’t swing side to side so much as when you have a trackbar though it’s still doable with a trackbar. My best advice is DO IT ONCE the right way. I did metal cloak short arm with stock shocks, then outboarded, then swapped rear springs, then midarm 4-link, then coilovers. The cheapest solution is do it right the first time lol.
 
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B00mb00m said:
You’ll probably appreciate having the 4 link when you outboard and tuck your shocks in, the axle won’t swing side to side so much as when you have a trackbar though it’s still doable with a trackbar. My best advice is DO IT ONCE the right way. I did metal cloak short arm with stock shocks, then outboarded, then swapped rear springs, then midarm 4-link, then coilovers. The cheapest solution is do it right the first time lol.
Click to expand...

Yup, I'll outboard the shocks... unfortunately I'm not quite ready for the coilover cost just yet... but trying my best to set myself up for the next stage of the build.
 
One of my buddies at the shop has his RPM 3/4 link done with JLs, I'll try to take some pictures when I pick up the axles. I think he used Artec trusses, but everything frame side is RPM.
 
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