It is silly to make that stock link do twice as much work, then add in 35" tires, locker, V-8, weight, and whatever else I throw at it and expect it to survive any amount of time. Then question why it failed.
The track bar is not designed to take any of the loads control arm does, it is just to keep the axle centered in its travel.
The stock joint is not able to handle the stress of doing the job of two. It is ok to do a 3-link, it needs a re-positioned, 2.5" joint to survive and be reliable.
The track bar is not designed to take any of the loads control arm does, it is just to keep the axle centered in its travel.
The stock joint is not able to handle the stress of doing the job of two. It is ok to do a 3-link, it needs a re-positioned, 2.5" joint to survive and be reliable.
Got a call yesterday from Dave's Unlimited, where I got my motor mounts. Other day I sent them pictures of how they were hitting my arms and how I butchered them with my dull knife. I noted in email I was thinking of buying his A/C brackets which mount high by tensioner near intake, but dissapointed in the design of motor mount brackets. It is Kyle on the phone, new owner of Dave's and we talk about mounts, projects, and just general bull shit for hour. He is going to send me some A/C brackets on him. I almost lost faith. Brackets are here.
AWESOME that is a stand up offer for the poorly designed motor mounts.
I bought a reverse for my Harley last year and then took a trip out to SD and while out there had went to use the reverse and it wouldn't work. Embarrassed because I had to get a could guys to help push the bike backwards. Anyhow when I got home I removed the reverse and sent it back to the company with crossed fingers that it wasn't installer error as they have a note for their warranty that it must be installed by a shop for the warranty to be valid. Well I get a call the next week from the guy who assembles all of these reverse pulleys and he apologies that during assembly some parts hadn't been torqued to spec and that is what caused mine to fail.
So for my troubles and being inconvenienced they sent me a pair of their rear shocks that they also make. These are $600 a pair shocks and at first I thought he was gunna offer me a deal on them for like 50% off. I was totally impressed with this as many companies no longer step up as far as I'm concerned. So I feel that is a great token from Dave's.
Good deal! It is frustrating when we install something, and not 'check' it, assuming its ok, then go to use it and it does not work. Technically, if I had moved them 1" forward, I probably would not have had an issue. Also it is great to hear when companies will stand behind their product, and admit, "X was wrong, lets make it right."
Also in that conversation with Kyle was our conversation. Kyle looked at my build here, and said, 'There is a lot of space between you radiator and motor."
I said "Yes, but I did follow the instructions to a T."
But Kyle is still owning it, even though I may have made a mistake.
Also in that conversation with Kyle was our conversation. Kyle looked at my build here, and said, 'There is a lot of space between you radiator and motor."
I said "Yes, but I did follow the instructions to a T."But Kyle is still owning it, even though I may have made a mistake.
To kinda bring this thread up again
I have an honest question......
That being that I was thinking of 3 linking the front of my Lj,Why? I'm building An Hp30 and my intrusive ideas kicked in and it wouldn't cost me much to weld on a truss for a 3 link since I've stripped the whole axle down to bare tubes
I have plans on doing a midarm type setup but since im already gonna be starting to work on that axle (after I finish up my AX-15&242 swap) I figured on asking,see what yall think!
Could the upper link be longer ? Any binding if I do so?
Use 2.5" Johnny Joints for all six ends. The upper arm should be the same length as the lowers with the same vertical separation frame side and axle side so that you are building a parallel 3-link. That way the caster remains constant throughout the suspension travel.
When building the upper mounts at the frame and above the axle center section, fully cycle the axle through it's shock travels without springs to check clearances around the exhaust and engine skid.
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Got it thank you! I kinda figured,Cause yeah I dont wanna sacrifice my caster changing alot throughout the cycling of the suspension !!!
I'm glad you brought the engine skid thing,I didn't think about that yet.But I woulda found out one way or another lol. I've been putting it back since I told myself "Let me figure out my exhaust/header setup" and I'm about done with that,Doing a savvy tummy tuck so I'm redoing my whole exhaust....for the 3rd time
I won't be skipping the engine skid cause I've been through 1 oil pan and 3 trans. Oil pans
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Shameless plug: if I do go 3 link (most likely am) I'll be selling my Savvy upper control arms,they're new
! Not even assembled yet,Rears are installed.
You have a problem to solve. If you go with the front half of the mid arm, then all the pieces you need are there. If you want to DIY it in baby steps, now you have the problem of not having frame brackets but you do need a mount on the front diff.Got it thank you! I kinda figured,Cause yeah I dont wanna sacrifice my caster changing alot throughout the cycling of the suspension !!!
I'm glad you brought the engine skid thing,I didn't think about that yet.But I woulda found out one way or another lol. I've been putting it back since I told myself "Let me figure out my exhaust/header setup" and I'm about done with that,Doing a savvy tummy tuck so I'm redoing my whole exhaust....for the 3rd time
I won't be skipping the engine skid cause I've been through 1 oil pan and 3 trans. Oil pans
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Shameless plug: if I do go 3 link (most likely am) I'll be selling my Savvy upper control arms,they're new
The best way to do it in steps is to copy what Garrett did. Mid arm mount and stiffener on the axle, custom single upper short arm which is basically a Savvy lower and then widen the stock upper frame mount and drill it out for the 9/16" bolt used in the 2.5" JJ.
That way, the only backwards motion is when you install the mid arm frame mounts up front, you have to cut off the minor change you made to the frame side upper. Minor loss and the rest is still moving forward efficiently.
I may have that single lower from when I helped Garrett do his and broke up a pair of lowers, emphasis on may.
Yep this is what im wanting to do
! With that said,From what im understanding, Your saying I could use the stock fame side UCA mount but modify it to fit the bigger joint ? I was initially thinking of chopping it off too and burn in something with some more meat. But if i could save myself some work i wouldn't mind doing so with just modding the stock frame side UCA!
What would you honestly recommend considering that im most likely gonna chop it off once the time comes for the midarm?
PM me if you find it, If not its no biggie (im about broke too so i can't buy it just yet within the next month if im being honest.....just spent about 6k In my latest endeavor last week,Still not done with my project! )
Yep this is what im wanting to do
With that said,From what im understanding, Your saying I could use the stock fame side UCA mount but modify it to fit the bigger joint ? I was initially thinking of chopping it off too and burn in something with some more meat. But if i could save myself some work i wouldn't mind doing so with just modding the stock frame side UCA!
What would you honestly recommend considering that im most likely gonna chop it off once the time comes for the midarm?
PM me if you find it, If not its no biggie (im about broke too so i can't buy it just yet within the next month if im being honest.....just spent about 6k In my latest endeavor last week,Still not done with my project! )
Search @starkey480 's thread, I believe he documented bits of the work Blaine is talking about.
I'll be checking that out. Thanks
Edit: Found where he modded the stock UCA, I like the idea! That makes me confident to just use the stock mounting location then !
Link https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/arizona-rock-crawler.26000/post-1066707
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Same way I had Garrett do it. Cut off the inboard side, make a new side that is wide enough for a lower joint.
I have a note to look for it.
I'll PM you!
My stock upper arms measure about 15 ¼ I could definitely make that arm work!
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