Eaton E-Locker Anti-Rotation Bracket Play

I had the same question when I was installing my Eaton E-Locker on my 4runner a couple of years ago and created this video. Sent it to Eaton and they said it was good.
Hope that helps, my rear diff has had 2 yrs, 40,000 miles on it and I havent had any issues. I also have beat the heck out of it over that time too. I just completed the Rubicon trail a few days ago. So yeah its been tested.

Just make sure it can move freely and has no binding. You actually do not want too much movement as that can slow down engagement.

Accelerometer said:

I had the same question when I was installing my Eaton E-Locker on my 4runner a couple of years ago and created this video. Sent it to Eaton and they said it was good.

Hope that helps, my rear diff has had 2 yrs, 40,000 miles on it and I havent had any issues. I also have beat the heck out of it over that time too. I just completed the Rubicon trail a few days ago. So yeah its been tested.

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Curious, did you do an actual video out for install?

I got 2 used D20 Eaton Elockers, and I wanted to check them for locking. Is there any way, that you know, to bench test and see it lock up? Or does it have to be in the Diff?

cpwolf said:

Curious, did you do an actual video out for install?

I got 2 used D20 Eaton Elockers, and I wanted to check them for locking. Is there any way, that you know, to bench test and see it lock up? Or does it have to be in the Diff?

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Can you not just put 12V across it and see if the pins actuate? Or maybe I'm missing the point (happens a lot).

The amount of play in that video is good. You don't want it to be binding at all. Mimic the poster video and you're good to go. Just did two of them last week.

hear said:

Can you not just put 12V across it and see if the pins actuate? Or maybe I'm missing the point (happens a lot).

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It kinda takes two set of hands. You have to energize the stator, rotate it to get the pins to move and then rotate the spider gears to verify it locks.

I will say I installed one in my front diff about 7-8k km ago with a decent amount of play (fair bit more than the video posted), it locks up immediately and has not had an issue.

That's perfectly fine. Sometimes they need to be bent in order to make sure they aren't in a bind. I had to bend one on a JL. No biggie at all.

Blackjack said:

It kinda takes two set of hands. You have to energize the stator, rotate it to get the pins to move and then rotate the spider gears to verify it locks.

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Found this, never seen it and I’be looked a lot, great view of the Eaton.

For the OP, you can see they have that play, I think the pro Alek is when there is NO play, and one of those flanges break off, from what I read.

Thanks for asking and posting, these guys confirming this is excellent.

cpwolf said:

Curious, did you do an actual video out for install?

I got 2 used D20 Eaton Elockers, and I wanted to check them for locking. Is there any way, that you know, to bench test and see it lock up? Or does it have to be in the Diff?

Click to expand...

Unfortunately I didnt do a video but I did this writeup that documented a lot of it: https://trail4runner.com/2021/06/16/eaton-rear-e-locker-install-on-5th-gen-4runner/ which has a lot more details on the install.

I was going to do a video on it but ran out of time. It is a very simple process as long as you are aware that the tabs shouldn't be in a bind.

I recently called Eaton to find out what the suggested amount of rotational free play was supposed to be for the stator. The tech told me .063" min. to .125" max. He also mentioned that this range is critical to keep the tabs from breaking off. He explained that if the stator is allowed to rotate further than .125", it can build up excessive inertia when the axle rotation changes from forward to reverse. This can end up breaking the small tack welds that hold the tabs onto the stator. I'm not sure I would've believed his reasoning 5 years ago when I built my axles...

My front Eaton quit working a few months ago so I pulled the cover to investigate. I found both tabs in the bottom of my case...

Without the tabs in place, the stator can rotate freely until the wires become separated inside the stator. No more lock-up when this occurs.

I pulled the cover on my rear axle to inspect those tabs also. Both tabs were still in place. I estimate the allowed rotation is close to 1/2". I considered adjusting the tabs to try and get closer to the Eaton spec. I hesitate to bend them further because of the risk of breaking the tiny tack welds. I'm not even sure the tabs would contact the bearing cap if I could get them bent further without breaking them. Here's a picture of the tab in the Dana35.


So I'm looking for advice. I know these tabs are literally hanging on by a fingernail. I'd like to avoid replacing another stator if possible.

Did the tabs fail on my Dana30 because the rotational distance was out of spec?

Should I follow the Eaton spec and attempt to bend the tabs (risking breaking them)?

Is there another way to add strength to these tabs (increase longevity)?

I'm in the process of installing the new stator on my Dana30 now. The Dana35 is still in the axle. Thanks everyone for your help.

Wow, this is interesting to read. Not sure why the tabs broke, but the inertia theory makes sense.

I also understand your worry of bending the tabs, although I've never experienced issues doing it. If call Eaton and see what they say. Maybe the tabs are tack welded lightly for a reason, but I don't know. If it were me, I'd tack weld them back on and call it a day.

So the old stator with the broken tabs is shot. Something came apart internally when the wires got yanked. Welding the tabs back on won't help.
I considered adding weld to the new stator, in an effort to reinforce the tabs. I hesitate though because I'm concerned about the heat. It appears that the tabs are welded before the stator internals are assembled? I'm guessing they're covered in some kind of epoxy to seal it all up. I may call Eaton to confirm if welding can damage the internals.

SvtLdr said:

So the old stator with the broken tabs is shot. Something came apart internally when the wires got yanked. Welding the tabs back on won't help.
I considered adding weld to the new stator, in an effort to reinforce the tabs. I hesitate though because I'm concerned about the heat. It appears that the tabs are welded before the stator internals are assembled? I'm guessing they're covered in some kind of epoxy to seal it all up. I may call Eaton to confirm if welding can damage the internals.

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Yeah I wouldn't take my chances on a new stator. If all I had was an old non damaged one I would.