Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

Exogate install is off to a rough start

I actually have one of these that I haven't used in years, but I didn't think I have any compatible torx bits.

I would lean more towards taking the route that @mrblaine suggests. He has probably removed a few more bolts off a jeep then I have. It worked for me but I am in a rust belt
 
When you drill the heads off, the tendency is to grab a nice sharp bit, chuck it up in the drill motor, stick it in screw, lean into it so it doesn't skip out and skitter across your pretty paint, and pull the trigger. Congratulations, you just broke a flute off. Instead, get a gently used bit that is not new sharp. Center the point in the recess with gentle pressure and pull the trigger with some authority. That will get it to start cutting on center without breaking the flutes. If you want to switch to a new sharp bit after you get it going, that works pretty well.

If I have even one fastener fight me, I don't waste my time hammering the bits. I just get out the drill because the chances of success with it are always 100%.

So here are the 2 options I have on hand. Contender on the left is a black oxide 5/16 bit. On the right is a virgin carbide bit.

PXL_20250412_015616272.MP.jpg


Unless the black oxide bit is a bad choice for some reason, I'm thinking of using that to start as you suggested above.
 
So here are the 2 options I have on hand. Contender on the left is a black oxide 5/16 bit. On the right is a virgin carbide bit.

View attachment 608166

Unless the black oxide bit is a bad choice for some reason, I'm thinking of using that to start as you suggested above.

If the carbide bit is actual full carbide, the chance of it not chipping a flute for this job is very close to zero. Use the other one. Black oxide is more than fine.
 
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So here are the 2 options I have on hand. Contender on the left is a black oxide 5/16 bit. On the right is a virgin carbide bit.

View attachment 608166

Unless the black oxide bit is a bad choice for some reason, I'm thinking of using that to start as you suggested above.

That Ryobi bit is not full carbide and may break first. The dull bit trick works well with a dull bit. Another option to get the drill started without breaking it is start with the drill in reverse. That motion can set you up with a smooth starting point.
Hope it works out.

B
 
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As with most projects, a single step sometimes will take 90% of the time and effort. Today I decided to try and finish the install of the Exogate. Step one was drilling out the hinge bolt I stripped.

It took way more effort than I expected to fully drill out the head. I ended up using both bits and went thru 2 m12 batteries and 1 18v on my Ryobi before it finally gave.

This is about half way there.
PXL_20250412_182940285.PORTRAIT.ORIGINAL.jpg


I ended up having to drill out the bottom two tailgate hinge bolts as well. This was a total pain and probably took me the better part of 2 hours to finish breaking the bolt heads.

I laid the tailgate flat on my workbench but it seemed like my drill bits weren't doing much of anything. I even went to harbor freight and bought a 6 amp plug in drill because my battery drills weren't powerful enough. Even with the new drill, the bits didn't seem to be cutting much anymore.

I abandoned the drill and got my rotary tool out with a carbide bit. I used that to carve out the two bolt heads to finally free the OEM hinges.

With the old hinges removed I could finally begin installing the Exogate hardware. I got everything installed without too much trouble, the tailgate still needs to be realigned so it closes correctly, but I plan to do all the final adjustments once I replace the rear bumper, and install the tire carrier on the tailgate.

I also need to figure out a way to fabricate extenders for the tire snubbers. I think I've seen others use PVC pipe to make their own?

Here it is installed.

PXL_20250413_013503934~2.jpg
 
Looking good! I went to a local dismantler and bought some snubbers then used my bandsaw to cut them down to size. Others have recommended cheap hockey pucks
 
I have no idea why you had such a hard time drilling out the heads, I was probably 5 mins per bolt TOPS.
Were you using any cutting oil?
If I spent 5 minutes drilling the head off of one of those tailgate hinge screws, everything I was using would be in the trash and I'm starting over with good stuff including a new drill motor and bits. We literally spend no more than 45 seconds per.
 
More than a little. My helper likes to grab the dainty M12 Fuel drills for stuff. I always grab the M18 Fuel with larger than a 5AH battery in it. Easily twice as fast drilling something where it matters.

Yes, but him going to buy new drill motors was much less beneficial than if he had picked up a good drill bit. My only point. My M12 is for screws and drill small holes in wood. M18 anywhere else.
 
I like these. When using a standard bit, I was taught to start with a small bit first and then get progressively bigger. These let you do it all at once. They are one of the best purchases I've even made.

BUT ... you can buy a cheap Chinese welder (until tariffs kick in) for less and I like the welded nut solution the best.

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0C46RHQZG?tag=wranglerorg-20

View attachment 608219

I should buy a set of those bits to see if they do exactly what I expect which is die an early death due to the smallish lead in point dulling very quickly. That is the bane of my existence with step bit. The point always dulls faster than the rest of the bit and they are junk after that. Same as normal bits that you use to enlarge holes by a 64th. The outer edge of the flute dulls and then the bit is junk until replaced or sharpened.
 
I should buy a set of those bits to see if they do exactly what I expect which is die an early death due to the smallish lead in point dulling very quickly. That is the bane of my existence with step bit. The point always dulls faster than the rest of the bit and they are junk after that. Same as normal bits that you use to enlarge holes by a 64th. The outer edge of the flute dulls and then the bit is junk until replaced or sharpened.

Is there any way to sharpen one of those bits without sending them somewhere? I’ve always assumed the answer is no.
 
I have no idea why you had such a hard time drilling out the heads, I was probably 5 mins per bolt TOPS.
Were you using any cutting oil?

I think it's fair to say my drill bits were not up to the task. The bits themselves were not heavily used, but they are just Ryobi bits. I also did not have cutting oil, not sure if that was the cause or just a cheap bit?
 
I think it's fair to say my drill bits were not up to the task. The bits themselves were not heavily used, but they are just Ryobi bits. I also did not have cutting oil, not sure if that was the cause or just a cheap bit?

You can learn from from your experiences and ours. We all know you get what you pay for and good bits cost money and wear out. You got the kit installed and it looks good. Doesn’t it come with a way to adjust the bump stops?
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts