Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

How much did you guys get charged for drum brakes?

A

adventureboss

TJ Enthusiast
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Aug 1, 2023
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Phoenix, Arizona
I normally do everything on my Jeep myself but I'm not sure I'm ready for dealing with the rear drums. At almost 200k and never being changed, my e brake won't hold the Jeep anymore on steep hills. I called a Brakes Plus location here in Phoenix just to ask for a quote expecting it to be $300-400+, but nope, was told $159. If that's truly how much it is I'd much rather have someone else do it. Does that sound suspiciously cheap to anyone else? I thought the rear drums were supposed to be a big deal and a PITA.

Should I even bother doing it myself at that price? Seems like I'd save maybe 80 bucks or so DIYing it but if it's really such a pain I'd rather not.
 
adventureboss said:
I normally do everything on my Jeep myself but I'm not sure I'm ready for dealing with the rear drums. At almost 200k and never being changed, my e brake won't hold the Jeep anymore on steep hills. I called a Brakes Plus location here in Phoenix just to ask for a quote expecting it to be $300-400+, but nope, was told $159. If that's truly how much it is I'd much rather have someone else do it. Does that sound suspiciously cheap to anyone else? I thought the rear drums were supposed to be a big deal and a PITA.

Should I even bother doing it myself at that price? Seems like I'd save maybe 80 bucks or so DIYing it but if it's really such a pain I'd rather not.
Click to expand...

$159 is probably just for pads.
If they find anything else wrong or worn out, are you going to pay for it or take it home and start over?
 
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Drums really aren't that bad. I have no idea if that price is good or not, because I do my own, but I feel like changing the drum brakes shouldn't be more than $200. (Again, just a feeling, I could be completely off base) having the proper tools makes it way easier, but I changed the drum brakes on my WJ last month with tools everyone has (needle nose pliers, flathead screwdriver, and a pick) and it took me about an hour. You'll cuss the springs, but it's honestly not bad, just frustrating.
 
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Drum brakes aren't hard, people get scared of dealing with all the springs and such, but get yourself a set of brake spring tools and its easy peasy. Take a picture before you tear into it so you know where things are supposed to go

I agree $159 is probably just shoes and turning the drums. Or they have a deal with the auto parts store to get them super cheap - back in the day Midas had a deal with autozone to buy rotors and drums from autozone at wholesale cost if they didn't have them in stock. a $75 F150 rotor/hub would cost them like $15.
 
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Hmm, I watched a few videos and it doesn't seem so bad. I know people found the rear shocks a pain to do as well but I found them okay. I might just take it on myself. Is there anything wrong with just replacing the shoes and wheel cylinders + getting a hardware kit if the drums are fine?

They offered a free brake inspection anyways, so I'll go in Friday and just see what they say. I'll probably end up doing it myself though.
 
adventureboss said:
Is there anything wrong with just replacing the shoes and wheel cylinders + getting a hardware kit if the drums are fine?
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Like anything else, it depends. If you currently have issues like pulsing, deep groves or the drum is at or beyond max spec, then they need to be replaced. Max spec is stamped on the drum, measure it in at least 2-3 places.

Since it seems like you've never done drums, I highly suggest you get drum brake tools to make life easier.

At a minimum, get some of these. The pliers are more multi-tool. Parts stores usually have them for under $10. The job can be done with regular pliers and screwdriver, but you're not going to like it.
1744312390462.jpeg
1744312410658.jpeg
 
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adventureboss said:
Hmm, I watched a few videos and it doesn't seem so bad. I know people found the rear shocks a pain to do as well but I found them okay. I might just take it on myself. Is there anything wrong with just replacing the shoes and wheel cylinders + getting a hardware kit if the drums are fine?

They offered a free brake inspection anyways, so I'll go in Friday and just see what they say. I'll probably end up doing it myself though.
Click to expand...

With almost 200,000 miles. why not replace the drums too?
 
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adventureboss said:
$80 more to replace the drums and I've at least heard they don't really go bad unlike rotors. Rather put that 80 bucks into something else if I can.
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No, they go bad, just like rotors. They are a wear item (friction surface) just like rotors, but generally wear at a lesser rate since they're on the rear of a Jeep. At 200K, they're probably at or past max diameter.
 
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adventureboss said:
$80 more to replace the drums and I've at least heard they don't really go bad unlike rotors. Rather put that 80 bucks into something else if I can.
Click to expand...

Old drums can get warped and it makes adjusting them really hard for a novice. It's money well spent to do it once and be done.

Loosen the ebrake splitter beforehand and adjust it once the wheels are on
 
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BlueC said:
No, they go bad, just like rotors. They are a wear item (friction surface) just like rotors, but generally wear at a lesser rate since they're on the rear of a Jeep. At 200K, they're probably at or past max diameter.
Click to expand...

Got it. My old ones are rusted all over on the outside anyways, I'll get them all at once then.
 
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Rickyd said:
Old drums can get warped and it makes adjusting them really hard for a novice. It's money well spent to do it once and be done.

Loosen the ebrake splitter beforehand and adjust it once the wheels are on
Click to expand...

I tightened the ebrake splitter a few months ago to stop the Jeep from rolling back on hills and now it won't hold anymore again. I'm guessing I need to loosen it to where it was from the factory for the drum brake hardware to line up right and work properly?
 
adventureboss said:
I tightened the ebrake splitter a few months ago to stop the Jeep from rolling back on hills and now it won't hold anymore again. I'm guessing I need to loosen it to where it was from the factory for the drum brake hardware to line up right and work properly?
Click to expand...

Yes,but you want it loose enough it doesn't interfere with adjusting you brake shoes. Once those are set you adjust the ebrake
 
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I suck ass as a mechanic but even I do brakes, drums are comparatively a pain in the ass, you'll curse, loudly, 17 or so times doing the first one but once you get done you'll be happy, & forevermore save yourself some dough and time as you'll be able to slap a new set on in much less time than it takes to drive to the mechanic & sit on a vinyl chair thumbing through a two year old copy of golf digest waiting for them to do it.
 
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Drum brakes do absolutely suck.
Having the proper tools (unlike I did) would probably help substantially.
Personally… if you have the cash available I’d do a disc conversion.
Not a performance upgrade but just way easier to maintain and work on.
 

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