Where to find an NV3550?
- Thread starter MikekiM
- Start date
I put most of it in my build thread after the fact starts at post 7
Post in thread 'Project Basketcase!' https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/project-basketcase.67755/post-1258071
Doing it again i would have just run something like the bare bones clegg stroker kit. Stock rods,hyperutectic 9.5:1(or less,whatever runs best on 87 octane) pistons,stock cam and head.almost as cheap as a 4.0l rebuild. Nice power boost and it wouldn't cost 7000$....
what i have is great,and it hides from the California smog nazis in plain sight. It just doesn't make sense for most people.
In some of the places I love to explore like death valley you can only get 87 octane. I talked myself into building more than I really needed. It makes me smile every time I drive it,I just wouldn't do it again.
Update for those who land in this thread in the future.
Did the swap at 108,895 and am now at 111,748. So just off 3,000 of general daily driving.
I give the conversion a solid 95 out of 100.
Been dealing with a whine at 2500 miles which at this point, fortunately, is only an annoyance. It hasn't gotten worse and, in fact, it doesn't happen. But it can't be ignored. Going for a second flush of the fluid and this time will follow the suggestion @machoheadgames made early on and will try Joe Gibbs 80W90 Driven Racing Oil GL-4 Gear Oil 04530. The fluid change is both preventative and a Hail Mary attempt at remedying the noise.
Also dealing with a creaky clutch pedal. Haven't given much attention to that since the whine has been a priority. It's annoying. And at this point I am on the third or forth clutch master/slave.
Over all, when the whine isn't annoying me the AX15 feels amazing, as does the clutch. Grabbing first gear at a stand still is sometimes a real bitch and clearing into second and some muscle are the only solution. And then, sometimes it's fine.
I've gotten used to reverse. Fifth was always a problem with the NV3550 as was just getting off the line. Neither are issue now.
The only thing I would have done different.. change the pilot bearing. It's the only wear item I didn't change..
Did the swap at 108,895 and am now at 111,748. So just off 3,000 of general daily driving.
I give the conversion a solid 95 out of 100.
Been dealing with a whine at 2500 miles which at this point, fortunately, is only an annoyance. It hasn't gotten worse and, in fact, it doesn't happen. But it can't be ignored. Going for a second flush of the fluid and this time will follow the suggestion @machoheadgames made early on and will try Joe Gibbs 80W90 Driven Racing Oil GL-4 Gear Oil 04530. The fluid change is both preventative and a Hail Mary attempt at remedying the noise.
Also dealing with a creaky clutch pedal. Haven't given much attention to that since the whine has been a priority. It's annoying. And at this point I am on the third or forth clutch master/slave.
Over all, when the whine isn't annoying me the AX15 feels amazing, as does the clutch. Grabbing first gear at a stand still is sometimes a real bitch and clearing into second and some muscle are the only solution. And then, sometimes it's fine.
I've gotten used to reverse. Fifth was always a problem with the NV3550 as was just getting off the line. Neither are issue now.
The only thing I would have done different.. change the pilot bearing. It's the only wear item I didn't change..
@MikekiM For your creaky pedal, look under the dash. I had that on my jeep too after swapping my 3550 for an ax15. Turns out it was just the neutral safety switch making that sound because there was a worn bushing down there.
Also I'd like to warn you about the pilot bearing. It's meant to be replaced with the clutch. They're small and not very robust. If it fails it will wreck your input shaft. If that happens you have to get a repair bearing and sleeve. When I pulled my 3550 apart and saw that there was literally nothing left of the bearing, I thought maybe that's why it was popping out of gear. Well, that wasn't it but it was a lot quieter after this lol. Ended up getting an AX15 from novak which has been amazing. No complaints about it.
Not tryna scare you or anything but this is what happened to mine. It would suck to pull the transmission again to replace a tiny bearing but it's a headache if it fails. It still drove like this lol.
Disassembled pilot bearing
Grooved input shaft
Repair bearing (replaces pilot bushing and bearing as one piece)
Input shaft sleeve
Also I'd like to warn you about the pilot bearing. It's meant to be replaced with the clutch. They're small and not very robust. If it fails it will wreck your input shaft. If that happens you have to get a repair bearing and sleeve. When I pulled my 3550 apart and saw that there was literally nothing left of the bearing, I thought maybe that's why it was popping out of gear. Well, that wasn't it but it was a lot quieter after this lol. Ended up getting an AX15 from novak which has been amazing. No complaints about it.
Not tryna scare you or anything but this is what happened to mine. It would suck to pull the transmission again to replace a tiny bearing but it's a headache if it fails. It still drove like this lol.
Disassembled pilot bearing
Grooved input shaft
Repair bearing (replaces pilot bushing and bearing as one piece)
Input shaft sleeve
Thank you for this.
Regarding the creaky pedal.. I have changed the CSS three, maybe four times, all since Sept of 2024. The creaking doesn't start until the Jeep (transmission) has warmed.
The buzzing sound... No idea what it is. Jeep is going into the shop in a few days. Let's see if they can diagnose it. Going to do another fluid flush, just because I should, but I am not confident that's going to change anything.
Can't lie.. while the AX15 feels so much better than the NV3550, the whole package.. clutch pedal, buzzing etc.. is leaving me contemplating selling the Jeep. It used to be an absolute joy. Now, not as much.
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Update on the creaky, grabby pedal... Haven't resolved it yet. There are tons of vids on YouTube, many TJ specific, that point at the piston in the clutch master cylinder. Some none TJ suggest a rubber pivot and the locator for the clutch return spring. I've lubed just everything I can get to.. including my hands, arms, sleeves, floor mats and more and the creaking is still there.
Dare I say it might be a bit less but it's still there and I can't for the life of think of what else to lube.
Is the back pressure on the clutch master cylinder plunger the only thing returning the clutch to the up position? I've lubed the snap on connection for the clutch master (4), the plunger and the clutch/brake pivot bolt. Can't find any springs in the service manual diagram...
Dare I say it might be a bit less but it's still there and I can't for the life of think of what else to lube.
Is the back pressure on the clutch master cylinder plunger the only thing returning the clutch to the up position? I've lubed the snap on connection for the clutch master (4), the plunger and the clutch/brake pivot bolt. Can't find any springs in the service manual diagram...
its the pressure plate on the clutch that forces the system back to "rest" position.
you say you've tried several clutch cylinder systems, are they all the same brand or different brands. sorry if you've already clarified that, just curious.
you say you've tried several clutch cylinder systems, are they all the same brand or different brands. sorry if you've already clarified that, just curious.
It's not the master cylinder.
Definitely in the pedal assembly.
There is the slightest amount of travel before the plunger for the master cylinder is engaged and creaking can be heard in the tiny bit of initial travel.
All about contorting under the dash. Def coming from the pedal assembly.
I came to the stethoscope conclusion earlier today. Should have it in a couple of days.
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