Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

What did you do to your other vehicle today?

Subaru rear wheel bearings.

This job must be brutal for the folks in the rust belt. I had to hit each side several times with a wheel shocker and a sledge hammer to break them free.

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But, how many times did you say "my subingru can go anywhere your Jeep can"?
 
Sent 3 cars off to get annual service and 2 others for oil changes. Saturday sent one for brakes and tires.
 
Subaru rear wheel bearings.

This job must be brutal for the folks in the rust belt. I had to hit each side several times with a wheel shocker and a sledge hammer to break them free.

View attachment 582182

My 2014 Explorer was the same, my mechanic spent hours trying to break it free with that tool. So when my 2016 Outback needs wheel bearings I will take it in. I know he bitched about doing the front ball joint last year.....total North East car and the rusted bolts to prove it.
 
Not yesterday, but the reason I disappeared for a while - like 18+ months. Got deep into an engine build that turned into a full-on project Miata. Forged internals, turbo, 3" exhaust, e85, countless other modifications. Aside from machine shop and transmission rebuild, all the work done in my garage.

This is the dyno run on E85 at about 22psi. It should be able to hit 24psi on the street, figure another 15-20hp:
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It went back to the tuner for a 91 e10 tune. I don't have the chart handy, but it put down 360hp. I plan to do more work on the E85 tune in the spring, get it to 420-440hp, then call it good.
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I'm working on another Miata engine build, one for my Mazdaspeed which bent a rod. I'm aiming for that to finish in the spring. Once that's done, I'll be looking at an LS swap in the TJ.
 
Not yesterday, but the reason I disappeared for a while - like 18+ months. Got deep into an engine build that turned into a full-on project Miata. Forged internals, turbo, 3" exhaust, e85, countless other modifications. Aside from machine shop and transmission rebuild, all the work done in my garage.

This is the dyno run on E85 at about 22psi. It should be able to hit 24psi on the street, figure another 15-20hp:
View attachment 582853

It went back to the tuner for a 91 e10 tune. I don't have the chart handy, but it put down 360hp. I plan to do more work on the E85 tune in the spring, get it to 420-440hp, then call it good.
View attachment 582855

I'm working on another Miata engine build, one for my Mazdaspeed which bent a rod. I'm aiming for that to finish in the spring. Once that's done, I'll be looking at an LS swap in the TJ.

Nice!!! This is my poor Mazda's current situation. :( I stopped driving it for a year and a half, give or take. (too many cars, not enough money, LOL ) We thought about selling it but then I decided I couldn't part with it and went ahead and got a new battery for it. Tried to start it, it didn't want to start. Finally got it started and after having to drive it around 80 miles give or take to get it to pass smog, I drove it to work a couple times and when I went to start it at home, started right up. Ran great. Got read to leave work and it would act like a dead battery. It would finally chug chug chug to life, and drove home fine. Well, long story short, one morning it chugged and chugged and then started up and started knocking. Needles to say, it is parked again waiting for hubby to get time to pull the head off and fix the broken thing abob. LOL It's the little disk on top of the "valve" thingy. LOL Sorry can't remember what it is called now. You may understand since you built them. :D

IMG_8377.jpeg
 
Not yesterday, but the reason I disappeared for a while - like 18+ months. Got deep into an engine build that turned into a full-on project Miata. Forged internals, turbo, 3" exhaust, e85, countless other modifications. Aside from machine shop and transmission rebuild, all the work done in my garage.

This is the dyno run on E85 at about 22psi. It should be able to hit 24psi on the street, figure another 15-20hp:
View attachment 582853

It went back to the tuner for a 91 e10 tune. I don't have the chart handy, but it put down 360hp. I plan to do more work on the E85 tune in the spring, get it to 420-440hp, then call it good.
View attachment 582855

I'm working on another Miata engine build, one for my Mazdaspeed which bent a rod. I'm aiming for that to finish in the spring. Once that's done, I'll be looking at an LS swap in the TJ.

I’ve got a turbo’d N.A that I built with my son when he turned 16. Super fun and the most bang for the buck you can find. Mine is just under 200HP at 10psi but thats on the original 1.6L engine so I don’t want to push my luck. It is plenty fast and corners like it is on rails. I can’t imagine what 360-400 HP feel like in such a light vehicle! If/when I blow this engine then I will go bigger and maybe find out.

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Worked on my kids 2003 Silverado he inherited from his grandpa. It’s bit of a beater 2wd long bed standard cab LS trim that has some sentimental value and I want to help him keep it on the road. Has 125k miles and poor maintenance even though grandpa was an ASE Master mechanic. Mechanics sometimes neglect their own vehicles. It’s my sons daily while he is trying to sell his Infinity twin turbo sedan that is killing him on insurance. He wants to buy a C5 Z06 Corvette once he makes Journeyman next summer. His dream car.

Changed oil, filter, and checked it over. Topped up all fluids including rear differential. Scanned codes. Found small evap leak code but no visual issues.

Needs:

Front wheel bearings / hub assemblies, critical need.
Upper ball joints / control arm bushings, not terrible but bad enough I ordered loaded Moog uppers.
U Joints, front is totally shot, rear is decent. Will replace both.
Rear brakes, pads and rotors, needs soon. Order Raybestos kit.
Belts and tensioners / idlers, belts cracked and I never replace just a belt, with the exception of my Jeep. Super charger eats a belt a season like clockwork. I carry a spare.
Small evap leak, will replace gas cap and smoke test if CL returns.
Valve cover gaskets leaking at rear.
Fuel filter, looks to be OEM.
Trans service, fluid is dark red.
Brake fluid is black, will evac and flush.
Washer fluid rez leaks. Prob needs a grommet. Will pull inner fender and check.

$450 in parts and a long weekend ahead of me. He will work it off by rewiring my barn and installing lighting. Plus help me install parts and learn life skills.

He’s my only child and I want to help him and educate him through hands in context. He’s a 4th year Union Electrician but has less nature mechanical aptitude than I do, and limited tools. I did give him a 1/4” - 3/8” mechanics kit for Christmas and helped him build up his first AR lower today.

Fun times in the old garage. He doesn’t like my music either lol. Even though he’s only 18 years younger than me. My garage, my music.
 
I started the install of a Kenwood Excelon DMX908S in my son's 2018 Nissan Frontier. I've installed probably ten car stereos over the years, but this is the first time I used an iDatalink Maestro. That thing is something else. You buy it, a harness for your vehicle, and a harness for your stereo or you can skip just the stereo harness to save a few bucks and instead splice the stereo's included harness into their vehicle-specific harness. Since I ordered from Crutchfield, they put everything into a package that I could add to the stereo when I selected it. It was nice not having to hunt for various wires and make a couple of dozen splices like I always have had to do in the past. The only splice I think I will have to make is for the parking brake override I want to install.

I did get sidetracked during the install because the paint on the vinyl under the AC controls on the part of the dash I removed had chipped off and needed to be fixed. Fortunately, it is almost an exact match the custom SEM Khaki I used to paint the vinyl on my formerly red and black now stone white and khaki half doors. Unfortunately, after sanding, cleaning, masking and painting - the blue masking tape peeled the finish off of some of the black trim around the AC controls, so I now had to paint that area as well. I had some textured black paint that matched very nicely. A few times back and forth between black and khaki and I eventually had it dialed in. I think the OEM paint is barely holding on in most spots and what really needed to be done is the entire section of the dash should be stripped and refinished, but I do not have time do that before he goes back to college, and the affected areas are only visible if you're really looking for them.
 
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Nice!!! This is my poor Mazda's current situation. :( (...) Well, long story short, one morning it chugged and chugged and then started up and started knocking. Needles to say, it is parked again waiting for hubby to get time to pull the head off and fix the broken thing abob. LOL It's the little disk on top of the "valve" thingy. LOL Sorry can't remember what it is called now. You may understand since you built them. :D

The word "knocking" stirs a lot of concern, usually means bottom-end and major overhaul. "The disk on top of the valve thingy" (aka, valve shims) is a much less serious issue, and hopefully what your Miata is experiencing - excess valve lash.

Feel free to PM me with questions when you get to resolving it. Valve lash is easy, if time consuming. Rod knock is much more challenging.

I’ve got a turbo’d N.A that I built with my son when he turned 16. Super fun and the most bang for the buck you can find. Mine is just under 200HP at 10psi but thats on the original 1.6L engine so I don’t want to push my luck. It is plenty fast and corners like it is on rails. I can’t imagine what 360-400 HP feel like in such a light vehicle! If/when I blow this engine then I will go bigger and maybe find out.

That looks to be an very nice example of an NA, and nicely put together. Even more awesome you did it with your son. Looks great!

An NB with 400hp is a bit nuts. There's very few places you can really put the power to use - if you can manage to put a reasonably portion of it to the ground. Passing power is not a problem, however the speeds you reach while passing will be.
 
Well, Jeep parts have to wait for this month. Drove the truck to town for groceries and had a caliper seize up. The rotors were pretty crummy already due to saltwater exposure and lots of sitting for periods. Went ahead and went the buy once, cry once route and got the full PowerStop Z36 kit. Hopefully this will be a good upgrade for when we start hauling the TJ long distances in a couple years for big trips (Rubicon, Moab, etc.).

May still pick up a few small things this month, but probably won't be getting control arms as planned.
 
Got 21.4 mpg on a 200 mile road trip in my ‘08 Dodge 3500 6.7 CTD without trying. Not too shabby for an 8000# 4x4 on 35s. My, er, umm, exhaust mods of last year continue to impress. The carbon footprint of this thing has dropped by 25% in all scenarios.
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Got 21.4 mpg on a 200 mile road trip in my ‘08 Dodge 3500 6.7 CTD without trying. Not too shabby for an 8000# 4x4 on 35s. My, er, umm, exhaust mods of last year continue to impress. The carbon footprint of this thing has dropped by 25% in all scenarios.View attachment 584179

Now when you do it on paper tell us what it actually comes in at... But YES that is impressive. I've never been able to get above 18 MPG out of any of my Rams. And speaking of exhaust mods.... ;)
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator