If you want to have the ability to fully flex out the suspension, you need at least 4"; at least with stock fenders.
This is a 4" lift with 33's. The fenders were the limiting factor; it still had more up travel to go.
What did you do to your TJ today?
- Thread starter LJRubiconGuy
- Start date
This is a 4" lift with 33's. The fenders were the limiting factor; it still had more up travel to go.
Nothin like Jacking around, jacking your jack since your jack couldn't jack without a jack........
Nothin like Jacking around, jacking your jack since your jack couldn't jack without a jack........
Jack is busy.
Nothin like Jacking around, jacking your jack since your jack couldn't jack without a jack........
I've used the bottle jack many times to loosen something that doesn't wanna come off - but that was the first time I ever did something like that. No place to put it that was close enough, then my mind's eye saw the floor jack holding it. Gotta think outside the box sometimes!
Took a drive and saw this guy. He didn't like having his picture taken.
Lift off!
Lift off!
Can you show me with no flex? I would like to see how it looks, yes mine maybe more a mall crawler but I would like to hit some trails later on
Here is 4" lift with 33's.Can you show me with no flex? I would like to see how it looks, yes mine maybe more a mall crawler but I would like to hit some trails later on
I was thinking it would look like it has to much lift but it really doesn’t. What brand springs and how does it it ride?
Zone 4" springs. With the Zone shocks it rode like a log wagon. I put Bilstein shocks on when I did the long arms and it rides great.
Finally tossed my mastercraft rubicon seats in
Baja TJ
New Member
I ran the Currie Anti Rock on my TJ and I had a 3.5 lift and tube fenders. The way I did it was to adjust my anti rock to get just enough inner fender rub that lets you know its there but not enough rub to change the dynamics.
FYI here is the Original Anti Rock. I was leaving the Off-Road show in Pomona Ca and was walking by the Currie display and this was laying on the Table. So I asked one of the Currie brothers or sons what it was. He said a brand new part, called the Anti Rock and we talked a bit and he said it had not hit the market yet. He asked if I had Jeep TJ and I did and sold it me, the first one.
Well I told him your part will fail! He said no way, YES look at the windows, each corner is a weak spot and I am an engineer. He guaranteed it wold fail, so I bought it for $300 bucks, right then and there.
Got back home, installed it and headed to Moab. First Trail, BAM, driver's side antirock failed, exactly where I told Currie it would.
That's probably why they made them solid. There's a lot of pressure on those arms.
You are right, they went from Alum to steel arms.
By the way, Curried refused to send me new parts (arms) so I had to buy a whole new Anti Rock. Albeit they did POST on the forums where I posted that they would send me new arms...they NEVER DID!!!
Drove up Winberry and up to the Aufderheide and down Boundary Road scouting for trash. Remarkably little snow this year. Here's one of the abandoned campsites we found.
-Mac
-Mac
3rd time's the charm on the leak between the transmission and T-Case.
1st time I thought I would try a part from the local auto parts store. I see people at that place all the time and maybe my bias for cheap parts was a little extreme.
After installing the national seal from the usual scum bags I still had a leak.
2nd time I installed a new T-Case input seal. Used the precision brand from O'Reilly. That seal was a super snug fit. Wrapping up the 2nd install to find it did it still leak.
3rd time I sourced some NOS parts with a USA stamp.
Install went smooth on the T-Case as well as the transmission side. I had covered the casting last time in case I had a crack in the housing. Figured it may help me locate a leak. That silicone came off pretty easy.
After all was installed I topped (overfilled) my fluids and took a short drive to find no leaks. Next I took a longer trip with highway speeds and returned home to find I still have no leaks.
Guess I'll continue to have a bias against local Chinese auto parts and I'll squirl away a few more NOS seals for a future day.
1st time I thought I would try a part from the local auto parts store. I see people at that place all the time and maybe my bias for cheap parts was a little extreme.
After installing the national seal from the usual scum bags I still had a leak.
2nd time I installed a new T-Case input seal. Used the precision brand from O'Reilly. That seal was a super snug fit. Wrapping up the 2nd install to find it did it still leak.
3rd time I sourced some NOS parts with a USA stamp.
Install went smooth on the T-Case as well as the transmission side. I had covered the casting last time in case I had a crack in the housing. Figured it may help me locate a leak. That silicone came off pretty easy.
After all was installed I topped (overfilled) my fluids and took a short drive to find no leaks. Next I took a longer trip with highway speeds and returned home to find I still have no leaks.
Guess I'll continue to have a bias against local Chinese auto parts and I'll squirl away a few more NOS seals for a future day.
Can you show me with no flex? I would like to see how it looks, yes mine maybe more a mall crawler but I would like to hit some trails later on
Here is another 4" lift and 33's
HumboldtCouple
New Member
I pulled the heater box out of the TJ today for a heater core replacement