The screen on my oil suction tube is looking pretty bad, how hard is it to replace the tube? I saw mention of a special tool needed but no other details and not sure if it’s the case for all years. This is a 4.0 from an 04
Oil pump pickup tube / screen replacement
- Thread starter jwilkinson01
- Start date
I swapped my oil pump when I did my RMS. I think it was a 7/16" bolt or something really easy.
-Mac
-Mac
Thank Mac, was hoping to just replace the tube and screen not the whole pump.
MountaineerTom
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I think because of the shape of the tube, there’s a tool made to install it easier. I’ve seen this on Amazon. Kind of expensive but looks like it could be DIY’d if you have the means.
Melling MCAT-62 Oil Pump Screen Installation Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A69QI2/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Melling MCAT-62 Oil Pump Screen Installation Tool https://www.amazon.com/dp/B004A69QI2/?tag=wranglerorg-20
Thanks Tom, so a special tool is required, thanks for confirming, for the price of the tool I can replace the whole pump.
MountaineerTom
LJ Enthusiast, Retired USAF Weapons Loader
Supporting Member
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I’ve never done the job, but I don’t know that it’s required. Probably just helps keep things lined up and straight when you’re tapping it in.
On a Small Block Chevy pickup tube , I have used a open end wrench that matches the tube O.D. then use a hammer to tap the tube into the oil pump body.
Never had a AMC 6 banger apart so I can't confirm this would work.
On my 2002 and 2005 when I replaced the pumps I needed a tool to install the tube into the pump body. It's pressed in with a tight fit. I was able to use a crows foot wrench over the tube and an extension to hammer it in. That Melling tool looks nice. Just hard to justify for something used so infrequently.
It's press fit and pretty tight. I think it's doable with an open ended wrench, but I bought the tool.
I think I am just going to see if I can clean the screen without removing it
Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions
Thanks everyone for your help and suggestions
I've done several and never used a tool. Find a wrench size that fits the tube then tap it in with a small hammer.
I had some scrap 1/2" rod and some 5/8" double-split shaft collars in my "pile-O- leftovers," so I made two of those tools. I guessed at the dimensions, and the collars are smaller OD than the Melling tool, so I have no idea if it will work. Melling bores the collars and drives the rod into it. I just welded it. I don't need to change my screen - I just saw the collars, measured them, and went, "hmmmm..."
If anyone sees this thread because they are about to install a screen, PM me. I'll mail the tool to you, free-O-charge, for you to test. Just send it back when you're done...
If anyone sees this thread because they are about to install a screen, PM me. I'll mail the tool to you, free-O-charge, for you to test. Just send it back when you're done...
How tight is the press supposed to be? I ordered a new pump. While waiting for it to come, I pulled the old one off. The tube came out of the old pump easily.
I also looked at the service manual to understand the "priming" process. I could find anything in there. Just said bolt up the new one and put the oil pan on. Any links to how it's supposed to be done?
I didn't have any pressure issues but was doing the RMS and figured it was a cheap insurance policy to replace the pump. After I took it out and opened it, it looked really clean with almost not wear. 130k miles. Makes me feel better about the engine since I have only owned it a couple months.
I also looked at the service manual to understand the "priming" process. I could find anything in there. Just said bolt up the new one and put the oil pan on. Any links to how it's supposed to be done?
I didn't have any pressure issues but was doing the RMS and figured it was a cheap insurance policy to replace the pump. After I took it out and opened it, it looked really clean with almost not wear. 130k miles. Makes me feel better about the engine since I have only owned it a couple months.
Did the same with my 97 when I did my RMS. Mine just pulled off and pushed on. Zero drama.
I unplugged the fuel relay and cranked the engine until I got oil pressure. I also put assembly lube on the rear bearing I took apart.
Good time to get the numbers off that bearing, too, for future reference.
-Mac
I unplugged the fuel relay and cranked the engine until I got oil pressure. I also put assembly lube on the rear bearing I took apart.
Good time to get the numbers off that bearing, too, for future reference.
-Mac
By "get the numbers" do you mean plastigauge the clearance?
I was visually impressed at how good the RM bearing surface was.
Only disappointing item I found was the amount of sludge in the oil pan. Really caked on in the bottom. I got that all cleaned up now and I suppose that's normal for 130k.
I was visually impressed at how good the RM bearing surface was.
Only disappointing item I found was the amount of sludge in the oil pan. Really caked on in the bottom. I got that all cleaned up now and I suppose that's normal for 130k.
It's supposed to be pretty tight. I think you'd be able to pull it out by hand, but it shouldn't be easy.
I recommend getting a drill with a long flat head extension (I chopped up an old screw driver) and driving the pump before startup through the dizzy hole until it obviously builds pressure. It takes longer than you'd think.
Interestingly the tube came out of the old pump easily but was tight going into the new one. Yes, I primed it through the OPDA. It took a little while but once it primed it took some torque. I had the valve cover off so I was able to watch all the oil run up through the lifters. Working well. Hope to fire the engine back up this week.
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