Purchased BMB 1.25" Body Lift, 1" MML, & Savvy Shifter - Now Which Skid?

I have and will recommend the UCF aluminum ones. They are less than 1/2 of the weight of the original and can take a beating.

Unless you get the 3/8" aluminum one. The OEM is 42 pounds, and the 3/8" UCF Extra-Clearance aluminum one is 38 pounds.

I like mine, and will recommend them too.
 
Unless you get the 3/8" aluminum one. The OEM is 42 pounds, and the 3/8" UCF Extra-Clearance aluminum one is 38 pounds.

I like mine, and will recommend them too.
I didn't weigh them side by side (I got the 3/8" aluminum), but I could easily throw around the UCF skid. The stock one no so much. The light aluminum also is easier to balance on your head while your putting the bolts in 😂
 
I didn't weigh them side by side (I got the 3/8" aluminum), but I could easily throw around the UCF skid. The stock one no so much. The light aluminum also is easier to balance on your head while your putting the bolts in 😂

Are you running a stock style trans mount on yours? Any clearance issues with the tub on yours?
 
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Are you running a stock style trans mount on yours? Any clearance issues with the tub on yours?
I am, I have a 5-speed. I went with the no body lift UCF tummy tuck. I'll be going with one of their more aggressive tucks after the first of the year when I get the body lift installed.

I have no clearance issues with the no BL UCF skid.

Get a cable transfer case shifter, if you don't have one, to install while the skid plate is out.
 
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What are your thoughts on the lo-pro trans mount? Or did you avoid using it? I have their aluminum/steel rear bumper and think its pretty solid.

I keep hearing that both the Savvy and the UCF lo-pro mounts can result in vibrations. Use of the stock trans mount would be ideal, but I already have installed an Anchor trans mount and experience more vibes than stock.

Wasn't necessary when I installed the extra clearance skid in my 06 LJ Rubicon. Before installing the skid I also installed a motor mount and body lift.

I opted for the extra clearance versus extra high clearance skid to avoid fitment issues with the rocktrac transfer case.

I also used the UCF lol clear pump mount and just welded it directly to the top side of the transfer case skid.
 
I am, I have a 5-speed. I went with the no body lift UCF tummy tuck. I'll be going with one of their more aggressive tucks after the first of the year when I get the body lift installed.

I have no clearance issues with the no BL UCF skid.

Get a cable transfer case shifter, if you don't have one, to install while the skid plate is out.

My misunderstanding, I thought you were already running their ultra high skid.

How much clearance did you gain with your current skid?
 
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I've seen too many failures of the welds at the corners for that to be true.

For a one piece skid and crossmember design, steel would be the better material for this reason. Do you really want a part that secures the drive train to have welds fail after a few bashes? Aluminum trans skid plates are best because of less weight, but only if you have a steel crossmember to support the drivetrain.

I got the UCF 1/4" steel skid which weighs 78# and is overkill for my purpose. If I was going to buy again I would get the 3/16" version which is plenty strong unless you plan on bouncing across the rocks.

Of course if price isn't an issue Savvy or custom welded steel crossmember with aluminum skid is the way to go.
 
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I've seen too many failures of the welds at the corners for that to be true.

IMG_8016.jpeg
 
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For a one piece skid and crossmember design, steel would be the better material for this reason.
Not really. Steel is a better option if you don't know how to design aluminum parts, nothing more.
Do you really want a part that secures the drive train to have welds fail after a few bashes?
The forces required to secure the drivetrain are not as high as one thinks. That and the failed welds don't drop the drivetrain, they just show that something is incorrect.
Aluminum trans skid plates are best because of less weight, but only if you have a steel crossmember to support the drivetrain.
Not really, I could and have designed several that hold up the trans without a separate crossmember, I just think that is a dumb way to do things.
I got the UCF 1/4" steel skid which weighs 78# and is overkill for my purpose. If I was going to buy again I would get the 3/16" version which is plenty strong unless you plan on bouncing across the rocks.
Early on in the TJ world, Tera came out with a raised belly skid, probably one of the first in production. We immediately hopped on that bandwagon, fetched up several and off to JV we went. In short order we learnt that 3/16" thick steel is a poor choice for something to just drag over the rock, no bouncing needed to tear that up. Shortly after that, they came out with the 1/4" version but by then we had all switched to the Currie 1/4" version which did just fine.
Of course if price isn't an issue Savvy or custom welded steel crossmember with aluminum skid is the way to go.
Yep.
 
Early on in the TJ world, Tera came out with a raised belly skid, probably one of the first in production. We immediately hopped on that bandwagon, fetched up several and off to JV we went. In short order we learnt that 3/16" thick steel is a poor choice for something to just drag over the rock, no bouncing needed to tear that up. Shortly after that, they came out with the 1/4" version but by then we had all switched to the Currie 1/4" version which did just fine.

I guess I no longer regret my decision, thanks.
 
Hah! I had to look closely to make sure that wasn't me. I've been known to look under other people's Jeeps in parking lots. :D
 
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