What have you 3D printed for your TJ?

I unboxed my new Bambu PS1 and made my first print. It's overengineered, and I could have solved the issue with a stack of washers…

I recently purchased a Switch-Pros 9001 switch panel and a Motobilt mount. Unfortunately, I realized the switch panel would not fit in the mount properly when I snapped on the accessory that placed raised boxes around the flat switches to make it easier to positively locate the right switch while bouncing down the trail.

The solution was to create a spacer that pushed the switch panel 4mm forward, Which allowed the panel to register correctly in the hole with the face plate installed.

Long story short, I make a flat piece of plastic with some holes in it.

Just to be clear, I only made the flat piece.

IMG_0991.jpeg
 
  • Like
Reactions: Zorba, Apparition and chili_pepper
Stinkbug said:
I unboxed my new Bambu PS1 and made my first print. It's overengineered, and I could have solved the issue with a stack of washers…

I recently purchased a Switch-Pros 9001 switch panel and a Motobilt mount. Unfortunately, I realized the switch panel would not fit in the mount properly when I snapped on the accessory that placed raised boxes around the flat switches to make it easier to positively locate the right switch while bouncing down the trail.

The solution was to create a spacer that pushed the switch panel 4mm forward, Which allowed the panel to register correctly in the hole with the face plate installed.

Long story short, I make a flat piece of plastic with some holes in it.

Just to be clear, I only made the flat piece.
Click to expand...

All that may well be, but you created a custom fit solution to a specific problem...and that's the beauty in having the machine (and the ability to design your own stuff). (y)
 
  • Like
Reactions: mjonesjr84, FarFire70, Tob and 4 others
Stinkbug said:
I unboxed my new Bambu PS1 and made my first print. It's overengineered, and I could have solved the issue with a stack of washers…

I recently purchased a Switch-Pros 9001 switch panel and a Motobilt mount. Unfortunately, I realized the switch panel would not fit in the mount properly when I snapped on the accessory that placed raised boxes around the flat switches to make it easier to positively locate the right switch while bouncing down the trail.

The solution was to create a spacer that pushed the switch panel 4mm forward, Which allowed the panel to register correctly in the hole with the face plate installed.

Long story short, I make a flat piece of plastic with some holes in it.

Just to be clear, I only made the flat piece.

View attachment 571470
Click to expand...

Good to see someone making something useful, unlike me.

IMG_2241.jpeg
 
  • Love
  • Haha
  • Like
Reactions: inkedrose, ChadH, mjonesjr84 and 4 others
chili_pepper said:
I was going to ask if you printed a left to go with the right. :D

Looks like the AMS is working for you with multi color prints. (y)
Click to expand...

The only part that was multi color was the head. AMS is working great.

Currently printing a shelf so I can get the second one set up. Each side of the shelf takes 13 hours. I’m only on the first.

1731173610193.png
 
  • Like
Reactions: NashvilleTJ and chili_pepper
chili_pepper said:
Well, you won't be lying if you tell someone your Dana 44's are bulletproof... :D





The price tag on that one is well doable and the 1500mm max object size would probably work, but the lack of ability to do freehand scanning probably wouldn't for a number of projects I have in mind. It does give me hope that, likely sooner than later, there may be a scanner that would suit my needs for a price I can stomach.

EDIT: Just poked around on the 3DMakerPro website and noticed their Lynx unit, which would be perfect for my application...so tempting... :unsure:
Click to expand...

Happened across this scanner video today. I’m starting to realize I could use one but will need to do some more research.

 
  • Like
Reactions: Tob, FarFire70 and chili_pepper
Anyone want to solve this problem for me?

I was going to take the bottom part and just extend it with sheet metal...but the bottom slope doesn't clear the lock actuator.

Thinking of replacing the entire piece with plastic and just extending the shape where I cut it...note the screw location for reference...straight down to the bottom of the tailgate.

Probably a marketable product. If you like power door locks.

IMG20241110095300.jpg


-Mac
 
  • Like
Reactions: ChadH
macleanflood said:
Anyone want to solve this problem for me?

I was going to take the bottom part and just extend it with sheet metal...but the bottom slope doesn't clear the lock actuator.

Thinking of replacing the entire piece with plastic and just extending the shape where I cut it...note the screw location for reference...straight down to the bottom of the tailgate.

Probably a marketable product. If you like power door locks.

View attachment 571772

-Mac
Click to expand...

I put my actuator inside the tailgate
 
  • Like
Reactions: macleanflood
chili_pepper said:
I picked up one of those SUNLU S2 dryer boxes to see what's what. I'll post up with my findings once I put it to use.
Click to expand...

First test (finally). Ran the box empty for 6 hours at 70 C. Heating elements held fairly constant temps at, ~95 C. Unit can feed filament from either end, which is nice, but the design is a bit confusing. It's larger than the S1(which I would expect) but has a smaller base, making it easier to knock over. As you might imagine, it gets quite warm. I'll try test heating a spool soon to see what kind of heat it holds.
 
  • Like
Reactions: Pantera99, Steel City 06 and MichaelGH
As an alternative to a filament dryer, simply point your chamber heater right at the spool:
PXL_20241119_011517998.jpg

Exhaust temperature on the heater is about 15C higher than chamber temperature when the heater is at 100% power. So at 80C chamber, you're blowing 95C air across the spool constantly.

Given the high airflow (I run about 70 CFM) and the fact that the outermost filament dries first, it actually works very well to dry while printing. No more sticking filament in the toaster oven
 
  • Like
Reactions: chili_pepper, MichaelGH and Zorba
Top Bottom