Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Strange issue

Peppergat

TJ Enthusiast
Original poster
Supporting Member
Joined
Jul 24, 2022
Messages
422
Location
Northeast Texas
So I have an issue that is pretty weird to me. When I have the headlights on and, go from high to low, the engine will shut off for a second and, when I turn the headlights off, it will do the same thing. Engine shuts off for just a second. I started digging around and checking everything that could think of and came up with nothing. I started feeling like it was in the headlight switch so I replaced it. It actually did seem to take care of the issue but, it started doing it again but, it’s more intermittent. So, I was running the engine while going back and forth through the functions, high, low and off while whacking on the bottom of the steering column cover and it seems like I could almost make it malfunction.
I’ve checked every plug and connector for corrosion and tight fit. So I’m to the point of asking if anyone has experienced this issue.
 
Humor me on this suggestion. Even if the battery connectors look fine, physically remove them and clean the battery posts and the inside of the battery connectors with a wire battery brush like this one. $5 or so at nearly any auto parts store.

41VUoWkYQKL._AC_SY580_.jpg

Then reinstall them and tighten the clamp bolts tightly enough that neither can be moved even with considerable hand pressure.

Then see what happens. If a battery connection is bad it can mean the alternator may not be able to fully power the ignition system. Modern alternators require a solid 12 volts from the battery to work. Really.
 
Humor me on this suggestion. Even if the battery connectors look fine, physically remove them and clean the battery posts and the inside of the battery connectors with a wire battery brush like this one. $5 or so at nearly any auto parts store.

View attachment 486458

Then reinstall them and tighten the clamp bolts tightly enough that neither can be moved even with considerable hand pressure.

Then see what happens. If a battery connection is bad it can mean the alternator may not be able to fully power the ignition system. Modern alternators require a solid 12 volts from the battery to work. Really.

That is the one thing I didn’t double check. I did install a new battery with a complete cable kit last year but, you’re right, I need to check it out.
 
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It might be time to start looking at the switch assembly inside the column-

Incidentally if people will occasionally use a mild lubricant on the ignition switch they’re probably going to get longer life- RV slide lube is great. Lot of plastic in there.
 
It might be time to start looking at the switch assembly inside the column-

Incidentally if people will occasionally use a mild lubricant on the ignition switch they’re probably going to get longer life- RV slide lube is great. Lot of plastic in there.

Good information. I need to pull that dude out of there and check it out.
 
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So I have an issue that is pretty weird to me. When I have the headlights on and, go from high to low, the engine will shut off for a second and, when I turn the headlights off, it will do the same thing. Engine shuts off for just a second. I started digging around and checking everything that could think of and came up with nothing. I started feeling like it was in the headlight switch so I replaced it. It actually did seem to take care of the issue but, it started doing it again but, it’s more intermittent. So, I was running the engine while going back and forth through the functions, high, low and off while whacking on the bottom of the steering column cover and it seems like I could almost make it malfunction.
I’ve checked every plug and connector for corrosion and tight fit. So I’m to the point of asking if anyone has experienced this issue.

I'd start with the grounds for the head lights at the back of the grill. Make sure those are good by pulling the screws and then reinstalling them. Second thing is to pull the 3 prong connectors off of the back of the head lamps. Heat shrinks the insulation back and allows the wires to make contact with each other which then does funky things to the electrical. Then check the grounds at the two places on the firewall and make sure they are good.
 
I'd start with the grounds for the head lights at the back of the grill. Make sure those are good by pulling the screws and then reinstalling them. Second thing is to pull the 3 prong connectors off of the back of the head lamps. Heat shrinks the insulation back and allows the wires to make contact with each other which then does funky things to the electrical. Then check the grounds at the two places on the firewall and make sure they are good.

Thanks mrblaine, I do actually check that. But, I have an update. I pulled the ignition switch this morning with the intention of pulling it apart and check to see if I could find anything. Turns out that in all of the tamper proof torx bits I have, I don’t have a T9. I could however see green corrosion in the switch. I went to town and got a switch, installed it and, same issue. So now I’m a little upset.
I did purchase and install one of the jeepcables headlight wiring update kit last year. Was a simple plug and play kind of thing and I figured what the heck, upgraded wiring seemed like a good idea. Well, after the ignition switch didn’t fix the issue, I disabled the new wiring harness and plugged back in the factory plugs and bam! Problem solved!!
So I’m retracing the install on the jeepcables harness to see what the heck is going on.
 
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Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator