Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ radiator

Questions about potential 97 TJ purchase

bbaldwin237

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Hello everyone! New to the TJ forum (but not forums) and am hoping to get some help on a 1997 TJ I'm looking at. I've been searching on here and Wrangler Forum but can't quite find what I'm looking for.

So I pulled a build sheet and it lists Customer Preferred 2TD and 25D. I've seen some things that says the 25D would include the Dana 44 rear. The Jeep does have a 44 rear. However, the build sheet also says 3.07 gear ratio. And I understand the 97 only came with 3.07 or 3.55. The tag on the rear axle lists 3.73. The front is confirmed as a Dana 30 with a 3.73 tag as well. The current owner hasn't had it all that long but said it was nearly stock when he got it and did a bunch of restoration and refresh work. He said in his work on it, some things seemed to be from a 1998. It has a clean title, which doesn't always mean that it hasn't had any major problems.

Is it possible that it's a late 1997 that just got some 98 parts on the line? It has a build date of 05/97.

Thanks for any help and hoping to be in a TJ very soon! Maybe this one?
 

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Here’s an empirical solution for you: if you know that the front axle is geared 3.73 and both driveshafts are there, go test drive it, pull into some grass and shift into 4WD. I think you will immediately be able to tell if both axles are geared similarly or not.

Other than that, you can jack up one side and count driveshaft revolutions during one revolution of the wheel.
 
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It's not so much that I'm concerned they're geared differently as both have tags. I'm mainly trying to figure out if it's possible it came from the factory with the 44 rear and 3.73 gears or if something has been swapped, potentially a frame swap due to unreported damage?
 
It's not so much that I'm concerned they're geared differently as both have tags. I'm mainly trying to figure out if it's possible it came from the factory with the 44 rear and 3.73 gears or if something has been swapped, potentially a frame swap due to unreported damage?

Oh. Well whether it’s factory or not, a Dana 44 and 3.73 gearing is a big plus. And if not factory, an axle swap is probably more likely than a rolling chassis swap. And whether the frame is the original or not, if it’s in good shape, why bother to know?

Definitely inspect the Jeep well inside the frame and everywhere else before buying, but on paper, I don’t see any reason for suspicion.
 
Oh. Well whether it’s factory or not, a Dana 44 and 3.73 gearing is a big plus. And if not factory, an axle swap is probably more likely than a rolling chassis swap. And whether the frame is the original or not, if it’s in good shape, why bother to know?

Definitely inspect the Jeep well inside the frame and everywhere else before buying, but on paper, I don’t see any reason for suspicion.

Thanks Tob! I agree that the 44 and 3.73 is a plus (it's actually part of my "must have" checklist). I guess I was concerned that if it had been swapped that there could have been some unreported damage that led to the change in the past. The reality is if I go to sell it down the road, a Jeep person isn't going to be as concerned about that as it being solid and having the right pieces.

I'm going to look at it tomorrow and potentially bring it home. He wants more than I'm willing to pay (I think he's asking too much for a 26 year old Jeep) but if we can agree on a price it'll be my family's new weekend toy!
 
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Thanks Tob! I agree that the 44 and 3.73 is a plus (it's actually part of my "must have" checklist). I guess I was concerned that if it had been swapped that there could have been some unreported damage that led to the change in the past. The reality is if I go to sell it down the road, a Jeep person isn't going to be as concerned about that as it being solid and having the right pieces.

I'm going to look at it tomorrow and potentially bring it home. He wants more than I'm willing to pay (I think he's asking too much for a 26 year old Jeep) but if we can agree on a price it'll be my family's new weekend toy!

As with the other replies I wouldn't worry about the axles as long as everything is clean.
 
Well the Jeep looked great and was solid. Lots of nice work and freshening up. It had a rear main seal leak and exhaust leak and he didn't want to meet my price. So for now, I'm still in the hunt!

If it sticks around on marketplace for another week or so I might message him and make my offer.
 
Well the Jeep looked great and was solid. Lots of nice work and freshening up. It had a rear main seal leak and exhaust leak and he didn't want to meet my price. So for now, I'm still in the hunt!

If it sticks around on marketplace for another week or so I might message him and make my offer.

Well nevermind, we talked yesterday and came to an agreement! Unfortunately he'll be out of town for the holiday weekend so I have to wait until Wednesday to officially become a first-time TJ owner!

Based on much reading here on the forum, my plan will be to immediately dump the oil and add in quality, high-mileage conventional oil with a bottle of leak stopper (probably AT-205). Then I'll clean the oil off and change the exhaust manifold and possibly the engine mounts if they look at all tired. I'll let the leak stop work for a bit and see if it helps and just keep an eye on the oil and try to keep it cleaned off. If that doesn't work, we'll look to get the RMS replaced during the fall or winter.

Looking forward to have something to tinker with and just have fun with. This won't be a daily driver, just a toy. I'll make more of a post with pictures once it's home!
 
I had nightmares putting that stop leak stuff in an engine of mine. If I have any leaks, I just fix them properly. I have a Original Owner 1997 Sport with 212,000 miles, original engine, no knocks. I changed all my engine and trans gaskets awhile ago, and no, it wasn't cheap. But, messing up a $3500.00 engine would be worse. Just my opinion.
 
If you're taking off the exhaust manifold your already one step towards dropping the oil pan and just redoing the seal.

That being said high mileage conventional oil might just fix it.

You sure it's the RMS and not the valve cover gasket?

-Mac
 
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If you're taking off the exhaust manifold your already one step towards dropping the oil pan and just redoing the seal.

That being said high mileage conventional oil might just fix it.

You sure it's the RMS and not the valve cover gasket?

-Mac

The current owner just recently replaced the valve cover gasket (and heater core!). I am going to retorque the valve cover bolts just to be safe.
1997 Late Models:
  • 3.73 ratio gears and Dana 44 Rear available

Thanks Boogieman! I couldn't find anything for late year changes. So it's kind of a 97.5.
 
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