Yes, I was confused. Thought we were talking about the Dana 44, my bad. All the gears are made in Korea to my knowledge. My Revolutions gears said "Made in Korea" on them.
How precise does an 8.8 swap have to be
- Thread starter Tj04
- Start date
But like you mentioned before i consider them good to go. Even though it would be nice to see made Amercian made products more often.
I hope it's made in the democratic people's republic of Korea
:nono:
Yes, I agree. I always, always, always try to buy USA made parts as much as possible (and where it's reasonable). It sure would be nice to see more gears and axles made in the U.S., but since that's unrealistic, we'll just have to take what we can get. Their gears are high quality though. I've been running them for years now without any issue.
Their big u-joint TJ shafts for the LP and HP Dana 30 are US made by Foote.
Most of the gears are coming out of Korea now. 7-9 years ago India was the cat's meow on gear mfg'. Make sure that your gears are stamped "Circle K." See image below. this is the mark that will tell you they are a quality set. Revolution gears are Circle K.
@Tj04 Click below to see the Revolution Discovery Series moly shafts w/10 year warranty.
27 Spline shafts here, 30 spline shafts here.
@Tj04 Click below to see the Revolution Discovery Series moly shafts w/10 year warranty.
27 Spline shafts here, 30 spline shafts here.
Under $300 is pretty good. I'd go with revolution anyway so I'll plan to buy them from you then. I've bought a few parts from you on eBay as well. Could I get a bit of info on the type of steel? I assume they are heat treated as well?
I see claims ranging from 4140,4150,4340 etc on forums
And I assume drum brakes fit fine on these? I'll have to figure out how to remove the whole drum assembly.
To anyone wondering I have decided to go with the s35 I suppose. I realized I'd have to change all my adjustable track bars again (just changed them weeks ago) and it will be much more money than I have now to do an 8.8, to run 35s. I'll just stick with 33s for a while. Fine with me
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Good choiceUnder $300 is pretty good. I'd go with revolution anyway so I'll plan to buy them from you then. I've bought a few parts from you on eBay as well. Could I get a bit of info on the type of steel? I assume they are heat treated as well?
I see claims ranging from 4140,4150,4340 etc on forums
And I assume drum brakes fit fine on these? I'll have to figure out how to remove the whole drum assembly.
To anyone wondering I have decided to go with the s35 I suppose. I realized I'd have to change all my adjustable track bars again (just changed them weeks ago) and it will be much more money than I have now to do an 8.8, to run 35s. I'll just stick with 33s for a while. Fine with me
Loving the idea of having someone on the forum running the Revolution S35!
Really no ones running one? I figured there would be a good number of guys running them.Good choice
@JMT polled a while ago trying to find someone running on on this forum, but I don't think anyone has come forward. I know a good bit of people still running the original superior version on other forums. I honestly think you will be the envy of a lot of guys wanting to give the S35 a shot!
Under $300 is pretty good. I'd go with revolution anyway so I'll plan to buy them from you then. I've bought a few parts from you on eBay as well. Could I get a bit of info on the type of steel? I assume they are heat treated as well?
I see claims ranging from 4140,4150,4340 etc on forums
And I assume drum brakes fit fine on these? I'll have to figure out how to remove the whole drum assembly.
To anyone wondering I have decided to go with the s35 I suppose. I realized I'd have to change all my adjustable track bars again (just changed them weeks ago) and it will be much more money than I have now to do an 8.8, to run 35s. I'll just stick with 33s for a while. Fine with me
They are 4140. Mfg'd offshore on the Discovery Series to be more competative with others on the market.
I wouldn't worry if no one on this forum is running a Super 35 kit. If you get one, you aren't going to have any issues from what I hear. It's a very solid setup for 35" tires or under.
Anyone know why no one seems to shred their ring and pinion on a super35? Why would the change in axle shafts and carrier have any effect on this? I'm fairly confident many of the s35 owners are pushing their s 35s harder than a standard Dana 35 Many on forums have claimed to have busted their gears on their 35, but then when people upgrade to a super 35, like the pirate poll for example, 430 some people surveyed had a s35. 3 broke it. None broke the r&p.
This leads me to believe 1 of 2 things:
Either the ring and pinion isn't as bad as claimed to be
Or
Somehow the strengthened shafts and carrier make it less likely to ruin the r&p gears. I am again no expert.
Any ideas? Why is the ring and pinion bashed so much on forums but the installation of a s35 kit and 1 guy on all the threads I've read has busted the pinion gear on his s35.
The same pirate thread, the OP also claims:
A Dana 35 4.10 pinion gear is as strong as a 4.56 Dana 44 pinion gear. He claims if you go down one gear ratio size:tire size, say take a 4.10 on 33s instead of 4.56, it greatly lessens the chances of ruining a pinion gear, and actually is near equal in strength of The next size lower gear ratio on a Dana 44
@mrblaine or anyone else, is there any truth to this? And I know my question is lacking on much of the technicalities so bear with me
If that's true I would take a 4.10 over 4.56 and accept the sluggishness.
This leads me to believe 1 of 2 things:
Either the ring and pinion isn't as bad as claimed to be
Or
Somehow the strengthened shafts and carrier make it less likely to ruin the r&p gears. I am again no expert.
Any ideas? Why is the ring and pinion bashed so much on forums but the installation of a s35 kit and 1 guy on all the threads I've read has busted the pinion gear on his s35.
The same pirate thread, the OP also claims:
A Dana 35 4.10 pinion gear is as strong as a 4.56 Dana 44 pinion gear. He claims if you go down one gear ratio size:tire size, say take a 4.10 on 33s instead of 4.56, it greatly lessens the chances of ruining a pinion gear, and actually is near equal in strength of The next size lower gear ratio on a Dana 44
@mrblaine or anyone else, is there any truth to this? And I know my question is lacking on much of the technicalities so bear with me
If that's true I would take a 4.10 over 4.56 and accept the sluggishness.
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Gears or axle shafts? If axles, disregard below.
Unless you or anyone else knows the merits of each type of alloy you mentioned and why you would use one over another in an automotive application, that information is fully useless to you or them. As far as heat treat goes, do you know the difference between a case depth of .040 versus a case depth of .080 or even what case depth is? Do you know what you want the core hardness to be in order to support the case depth you are after or trying to achieve? What Rockwell hardness do you want the tooth face and what effect does it have if is harder than you spec? Do you want a case hardening alloy or a through hardening alloy or do you want a cast iron alloy?
All you really need to know is Circle K makes a good gear, they know what they are doing and all that information you want does nothing for you. BTW- none of those alloy numbers being bandied about are typical for a gear set. Most gears are cut from 8620 series steel which has been more or less designed to make gears from for what we need them to do.
Don't know the heat treat or steel type applications for cars/axles but I know them for gun barrels and receivers. I know what case depth is. I do not know what any of these should be for axles. Not my area of expertise. I do know the tensile strength of 4130 is higher than 4140. And I was referring to axle shafts not the gear sets.
When I developed the Super 88 kit, Superior sent out 1541H shafts for the test units. No one broke any of them. 4140 is more than plenty and if you start breaking them, go to a different axle because you are exceeding what you have.
Not is, can be if the heat treat is done correctly. All steel has the same strength and resistance to bending regardless of alloy. What happens when you push it past the elastic limits is what the heat treating is for.
I don't doubt the 4140 is completely up to the task. I just figured if I had the choice I'd take the stronger of the two. Not complaining. Don't mind either. and yes if treated the same the 4130 is capable of more strength which is what I was meaning. I sure hope all the axel shafts are treated. I know every company treats parts differently.
In regards to me asking AOR about heat treating I was just trying to find out if the entire shaft was treated or just sections.
Like I said I'm no expert. I took a one semester course on heat treating and types of steel for Gunsmtihing, again mainly for barrels and receivers for firearms. It was very specific to the types of head treating we would be doing for pins, and parts; not axles or anything else. My level of knowledge on this is minimal especially compared to anyone in the industry.
Thanks for your detailed responses mrblaine
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