Recent content by UKTJ

I counter bored the back of the brake discs to give enough for the studs, letting the discs sit flush to the hubs. I didn’t want to declare victory too soon, but I have done about 1,000 miles since doing that with no further issue, so I am hopeful. I just wanted to say thank you to everyone...

Thanks for your help. Yes, the wear is at the interface of the lug and the hole in the bearing flange. It is not an issue between the lugs and the wheels, the looseness is between the studs and the holes in the bearing flange. Yes, clearly as issue recurring with spacers removed that is not...

Looking for any advice anyone can provide. Recently did a WJ Knuckle swap (late XJ hubs, WJ discs redrilled to 5 on 4.5, cross over steering) on my TJ. After about 1,000 miles I found the studs had worn the holes in the hubs to the point the wheels were lose. We removed the 30mm wheel spacers...

Really helpful, thanks. I'll probably go with an hour for cool down, just to be sure.

Perfect, thanks Mike. Any thoughts on how long it takes to cool completely? Is an hour enough?

It's a four hour drive to get there on the motorwat, leaving early and hoping to arrive by 10,30am. Anticipating maybe 12 to 14 hours to get back on back roads, including many stops and slow speeds.

No warranty, not surprising as I supplied the parts. Suggestion is to follow manufacturer's instructions, again, no big surprise there.

Interesting, that is slightly different to the instructionsnthey have on their website. How to Break in a Ring and Pinion The suggested break-in procedure for a ring and pinion gear is as follows: - Drive 15 to 20 miles under normal driving conditions (no highway speeds), stop and let...

Apologies if this info is here somewhere, but a search has not pointed me to it. After trying to do my own regear I had issues and lost confidence, so have had a garage do it for me. Places that will work on 20 year old Jeeps are few and far between in the UK, so when I pick it up tomorrow I...

I have removed the slinger (which as @Blackjack rightly says was the shim as well). I'm relying on the prior explanation by @hosejockey61 about why a slinger is not required, as I do not have a thinner after market one, Revolution do not prvide one in their kits. I may be becoming a bit...

Brand new and same brand - Timken. I remembered the thread from the guy from Riga that got caught out by that if I remember correctly.

Unless my maths has let me down the shims will allow me to get to 0.060" and 0.061". A heavy bias to even number shims, but I have two 0.015" shims, and I can combine that with others to get tp 0.061". As it is Saturday tomorrow will be having a good run at it. I should get the pinion depth...

Currently I have no shims setting depth, just the original slinger and the new baffle. The original slinger was 0.062". I think I am going to try for a better pattern by pulling the bearing off, removing the slinger, repressing the bearing and then using shims behind the baffle to do that...

It's a HP Dana 30 for the front.Fingers crossed, ran it again with less paint. I still wonder if it looks a little deep. But getting it shallower will be a hassle as I need to pull that slinger, so hoping it is good enough, rather than chasing perfection. Drive Side Coast Side Thank...

I know there was another thread on this already this week, but don't want to hijack that one. My backlash is at 0.008". My patterns on first run: Drive Side Coast Side I'm looking at it with my totally untrained eye and saying pinion too deep, do others agree? If so, any thoughts on...