Recent content by Sean B

I used the classic tube, nice quality product. I will say if you have a aftermarket rear track bar bracket you have to do some manipulating to make it clear but it is a nice, high quality product.

There is a nice write up in the how to section about how to remove the wiring bridge. I found it helpful as you can’t really see it well. Hopefully the link works. https://wranglertjforum.com/threads/how-to-remove-the-black-plastic-wiring-bridge-on-valve-cover.53776/

I have had better luck with solid inserts like timeserts or solid thread inserts, I will attach a picture of one I have gotten from MSC. I have used them on motorcycle case drain plays and used timeserts for spark plugs with good results. I found you have better luck getting the solid inserts...

I would want to verify I got back to what I had that worked, m just me but I would like to know what I had if it was working so I could get back to it or diagnose any issues that I happen to create installing new parts. I would think measuring 20 year old deformed bushings with may not be...

Measure pinion angles before taking apart? Measure what you take off and put new arms to that length to start, set pinion angles with one upper and then adjust the second upper to fit? double check caster for the front and then square up measuring from skid plate bolts and from front to rear...

Before I cut it I would want to check that axel was centered. It can take a fair amount of fiddling to get it centered at ride hight. There are some good articles on this site about doing it. Mr. Blaine I believe had a step by step write up about hanging a string with a weight from the...

I’m no expert but had the same experience, if you disconnect track bar it would likely droop evenly, think it’s deceptive because when on the trail would both sides be at full droop. I focused on getting bump stops right at full compression and then getting everything square and centered at...

Mine does the same thing, I believe that as the track bar moves through it’s arc, at full droop on both sides it holds the passenger side up a bit in addition to pulling the axel to the left of center from where it is at ride hight. If it’s perfectly square at ride hight it will move a bit from...

I had ordered some parts and communicated with Gerald using that email before and after the sale and he was prompt and responsive. I was missing two joints from the control arms and he shipped them without issue and did 2 day UPS. This was probably 3 months after I ordered the stuff and found...

4.7 seems sorta low, especially with 2 inch and 31s, I would think you could get better than that. What most people are doing is if you have adjustable arms slowly increase the caster until it drives right or until you get driveline vibrations. Then back off a little until vibrations go away...

2.0 degrees is pretty low. For reference I changed mine .4 degrees and it was noticeable. You can probably get to roughly 5 degrees without driveline vibes, that is about where mine is with 4 inch lift. Generally what people do is dial in caster until you get driveline vibes and then back...

MR. Blaine had a write up explaining the gunsight method using the center body mount, I can’t seem to find it but it was pretty step by step and I found it helpful. I also had good luck hanging a plumb bob off the outside of the frame rail on each side and then measuring from that to the sway...

Thanks for all the help. Finally had time to put axel back in. Runs smooth and no noises. Drives much better than the 4.10 that were in it, my wife is quite happy with it.

Thanks, sorta weird, the factory one was undercut slightly in that area to not mess with shims. Didn’t seem to have the issue in the front,