Recent content by Mac57

The frame pics of the Ky Jeep look OK, but, you need to know that these frames rust from the inside out. The outside can look OK , however, the inside can be rotting away. If you stick your finger inside one of the frame holes and start pulling out rust chips and chunks you have a big problem...

I live in the rust belt and am not as shy as other forum members of purchasing Jeeps with frames with some rust. Having said that those two are a definite no go. A decent frame is the first thing you MUST have when purchasing a Jeep, unless you have the skills, tools, equipment and time to do...

Previously you were experiencing multiple cranks and long fuel pump runs before it would start and then run fine. Now you have no fuel pump running sounds at all. Looks like a fuel delivery issue, possibly a failed pump. As macleanflood suggested above check your fuel pressure. Should be...

If I recall correctly you are looking for something in the 48 PSI range. Others can chime in if I'm off on this.

Checked fuel pressure? If it's bucking and sputtering mainly under acceleration could be it's temporarily starved for fuel.

Go right to the source and make a call to Mark at Wranglerfix, he will answer all of your PCM questions.

If you could locate suitable bushing replacements you are likely spending around $300 or so for all the parts, quite possibly more. Then you get the joy / frustration of trying to remove the old bushings and the time involved in that, plus undergoing the removal and reinstall process. And next...

2.4L or 4.0L? Fill out your profile please. I checked quickly on the 2004 TJ parts catalog , also on Rockauto's site. The Mopar part number you quoted didn't appear under the 2004 Wrangler listings for those for either engine. Double check that number. Maybe it's a domestic vs export thing...

I've never tried this approach so educate me please. Do you just crack open the bleeders, with a tube running into a container filled with fluid, and wait? Do you do one caliper at a time or all four at the same time? No pumping of the brake pedal involved? Obviously keep the master topped up so...

If your box is good otherwise (no slop) I'd first try the stop leak product Macleanflood recommended above. Next consider rebuilding / replacing the seals as Rickyd posted. There are just too many reported issues with replacement / rebuilt boxes. Seems it's a real crap shoot with these, unless...

Yes the axle locker air pumps , with their connectors and air lines for Rubicons, lived there on top of the skid plate when it came from the factory. Do not trash whatever you remove. Those parts are no longer available. If you are not going to keep whatever is left there you'll find plenty of...

No to using a worm gear clamp. Leaks will develop over time with temperature changes. Keep the constant tension clamp. If it's shot get a new one.

Go to the TJ Resources section on this forum. The factory service manuals are found there, they include wiring diagrams. Follow the procedures for testing and removal.

Check your transmission fluid level as a start.

You hit it with a hammer and it cranked. So where did you hit it with a hammer? The starter? You should be doing some basic diagnostics first to help us help you, and before heading to "replace" so you know what may or may not require replacing. Spark, fuel and air is what you are checking...