Recent content by ItchyDong

Idk what you’ve done to isolate this, but before you pull the tranny to access this splice, maybe backprobe each offending sensor grounds at the connector, and give them a good ground at the battery to make sure the problem fixes itself before diving into a bitch of a project. If the splice...

Yep. This is 100% correct. Run these positive fuel trims long enough, and you’ll end up plugging up your cats with unburned fuel.

No I get that. I just don’t understand why test it like that. The issue is the draw. Test for the draw. It’s one thing to test a diode with whatever tiny voltage and virtually no amperage the multimeter supplies. It’s another to ask it to function with a 12 volt/600 CCA battery sitting upstream...

I have no clue what this test is. If you want a definitive answer, hook your meter back up to the negative cable in series and disconnect the alternator cable from the post going to the battery while watching your meter.

**slow clap**

As finicky as they are when they go in seemingly perfect, my guess is it’s toast.

Give connector experts a call. They’ve been great to deal with in the past. They’ll even send you the terminals pre crimped with a pigtail if you want which is nice sometimes. I gave them pictures and measurements years ago and they hooked me up. https://connectorexperts.com/

Yeah I don’t disagree with the steering test first either. I guess I was just thinking it’s Sunday and most tire shops are going to be closed. Might as well eliminate what you can at home in the meantime.

I’d start with the driveshafts/ujoints. Remove the front driveshaft, go drive. If that’s not it, remove the rear, throw it in 4H and go drive. See if it resolves. Could be tires, pinion angle changing under load, and a few other things, but u joints are easy to test and eliminate. Edit: also a...

One vote for melling.

-Bad sensor, maybe. It’s been known to happen. -PCM. Probably not -CAT, probably not. Most of the time a bad CAT is driven by the downstream sensor “copying” the upstream sensor and will set an efficiency code. -Loose Manifold, probably not. You need to graph some live data like MAC said. Look...

You’re going to have to look at live data to see what the computer is seeing. Then with the sensor unplugged, check for your 5v feed and a 5v bias on the signal wire. Then you can install a resistor or variable resistor and play with it while watching live data to be sure the wiring can carry...

Before guessing anymore, swap injectors with a known good cylinder. If the misfire moves, you know it’s a bad injector. If it stays on 3, verify power and control (ground) at the injector plug with a 5 second noid light test. If it’s good, then wrap your injector. I say this because most of...

https://www.scribd.com/document/489346372/Jeep-TSB-18-031-03 https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mop-56028371aa?srsltid=AfmBOorBMapitPOvks7rn28sZ9MWQndsmh6xMyWfuwdJuP5ABxqN4TDB You’ll be a happy man.

Listen… wrap your injectors and thank @TJ Jim later. Wrap it per the TSB that’s out there. Summit sells the actual product you need. I’ll look for it and post it for you.