Recent content by Ir0nH3@d

there was a guy that did that about a decade ago, didnt care about the benefits of a 4 link and wanted leafs. you do you but I thought he was crazy

4.10s and 31s with the 32RH is a little deep, but not terrible 65 mph = 2889 rpm 70 mph = 3111 rpm for reference 3.73 and 31s with the 32RH 65 mph = 2628 rpm 70 mph = 2830 rpm

BDS makes a quality 2" coil.

OEM fusible link is the last ~6-8" of cable before the alternator

I'd imagine it comes down to design of the air system, but i cant see them being slower than a regulator. when i have used them for tires, i filled the tire past 25 psi for onroad use and then connected the release to bring them to the same psi. never finished my 4x tire inflate/deflate...

I've had good luck with these, but I havent put one into a 4 tire inflate/deflate system https://www.mcmaster.com/products/pressure-relief-valves/fast-acting-pressure-relief-valves-for-air-and-inert-gas-9/?s=pressure-relief+valves+for+air

There are pressure relief blow off valves set to various PSI that are ~$15 each. Much cheaper than the digital controller if you want to do all 4 at the same time

are they using OEM specs for the alignment? not sure about a 6" lift, but generally a drop pitman arm is a downgrade

what tire size are you running or looking to run, gear changes arent cheap so most plan for their final tire size

the Durango alternator has the ability to produce more amps if your system calls for it. the cabling does not limit the power draw, it can only hope to contain it. it depends on your draw, but if you feel the bigger alt is necessary, its probably best to at least up the size of your alternator...

you can add bump stop extension above the cup. i like to add a bit above and a bit to the lower pad in the rear to keep the bumpstop from rubbing the coils. I wouldnt use hockey pucks, they will deteriorate rapidly. Zone sells 3" universal bump stop extensions for ~$13 per pair...

thats a solid build plan. I'd go with an 8" wide rim with 3.75"-4" backspacing, leave the rear diff open and add an aussie or similar lunchbox locker to the front.

might want to think about replacing the track bar, RE track bars are known to have issues clearing the diff cover and can fail catastrophically. Looks like yours has hit a few times already.

OEM Rubicon flares are an inch wider than non-rubis and painted. yours look like they are the thinner flares and non painted

I have difficulty believing 35x12.5 fit without rubbing with 4.5" backspacing. I run 4" backspacing, while cycling the suspension the rears just barely clear the frame and I had to add steering stop washers to the fronts to keep them off antirock arms and savvy control arms while turning, both...