Recent content by hardtailpan

Nice!

Yeah, this is one of the thing I remember as well, I believe @Jerry Bransford said that, but I don't believe he is participating in the forum anymore. Edit: found the links...

Yeah, my understanding is that the 35 should be ok under these circumstances, but if these will provide reasonably more strengh for a reasonable price, maybe they are worth throwing in while I change the fluid. After all, it's a pretty easy swap. The 35 i purchased came out of a jeep that got...

So, I found a set of these Motive Gear Ten Factory axles for close to $200. I recently bought a set (Dana 30/35) 4.11 axles to possibly put in my Jeep Apex with the 32RH with the thought of going to 33" tires. My question is, are these axles worth considering? The Apex will not see any rock...

I have no idea why someone would pull the body off to swap the motor out. I just did mine and its not bad. The worst part was getting the stupid electrical connectors disconnected without breaking them. Gonna have to get one of those tools to help with that next time. Now, the one i did was...

yup

This. I paid 3600 four years ago, back when these things were very expensive, for a rust free 2002 Apex from florida. Absolutely beautiful condition rust wise. Intereor seats were junk, motor was rapping, and the transmission was pouring fluid, but, rust free. At that price you can't lose...

Yeah, that's pretty overfilled. looks like about 1/2 pint or so i'd guess. I wouldn't worry about flushing it, but I'd want it reduced to the proper level. There are a few ways to do that, none I'd ask my mom to do tho lol. If you have some kind of fluid pump, like they often use to change...

Very hard to tell how long one will last. My Apex had a nice rap when I bought it and it had 200k miles on it. The motor broke a piston skirt. This seems to be (anectdotally) the preferred method of failure of these motors.

Listen to @hear ^^^^ He has rebuilt a bunch of these and has also made some youtube videos you might want to check out so you can see what we are talking about.

if you don't have a leak at the tcase/transmission, and you are not going to split them when you remove them, then i would not replace that seal. If you are going to split the transmission and tcase, then i would do the transmission output shaft seal. You really don't need to do the tcase...

Yup, this is likely the front pump seal, which seals the torque converter input hub. Its also possible its the pump seal itself, but this is usually just a front pump seal. @hear will chime in eventually, and he knows all too well about this seal. Anytime I pull a transmission out, I always...

even when i was looking initially, 32rh transmissions just don't seem to show up too often.

yeah, mines from my extra 32rh as well, which i may eventually rebuild, with some guidance from @hear 's videos

honestly it wasn't even intended....