Recent content by GASnBRASS

Why do those flares look less tapered towards the bottom than the flares everyone else has put on? Did they change the design recently?

I'll look into that, thanks. I wonder if the whole trans from a toyota could be used with just a bell housing swap, or is other stuff like the input/output shafts different.

Thank you all. This feedback is why I ask the question before getting too involved down an endless rabbit hole of frustration. Tremec is too tall. AX needs deeper first. 3550 is only slightly better. SM/NP/T - 4 speed gearing is too far apart and shifter is buried under the dash.

Does the belly of it hang down significantly further than an AX15 or the like?

AA bellhousing adapters are available for the NP435 and SM465, but I see Novak is dropping the NP435 trans in favor of the T18. Wasn't sure where the shifter would end up, but under the dash would be a pain to make work. I did see that Tremec 5 speed with 6:1 granny first and an overdrive gear...

*sigh* Of course jeep never put a 4 speed manual in the TJ. My current 4.10 gears and 33"s would make 5th gear useless. Some 4 speeds have a granny 1st gear of 4.5:1 or 6.5:1, deeper than the AX15's 3.8:1

Any experience with a 4spd manual trans swap in a TJ with a deep granny 1st gear? Other option is an AX15, but I don't think overdrive would be ideal with 4.10 gears/33" tires, unless someone says otherwise.

For sale: Two sets of stock ratio 4.0L rocker arms from Hesco. Cash, MO, PP. Stock replacements with pivots and bridges, $60 shipped CONUS only. Custom ground and shot peened rockers by Hesco for extra clearance with valve cover. Comes with pivots and bridges. $100 shipped CONUS only.

Thanks for the flap disc suggestion, only took about an hour. Taped everything off and took my time grinding and letting it cool, never getting too hot to touch. I was able to take 0.200" off, or about 5mm. With some other adjustments (getting rid of the snout spacer, shortening the crank bolt)...

Shorten crankshaft and get pulleys aligned. Install grill, hood, fenders, roll bars. Finish interior floor coating, whatever that might be and reassemble interior. Get new steering installed and aligned. Swap in ss sye and dial in ds angles. Install rmvb and aux cooler. Install t-case cable...

A build sheet for mine would be pretty useless as most of the driveline has been modified or replaced/upgraded. Only reason I pulled it was to verify the gas tank size.

As assembled there is about an 1/8" of interference between the crank bolt and the fan blades. Obviously I'll need more than just a smidge of clearance between such fast moving parts and account for any flex from the fan blades or the thermo coupler. The ARP bolt head is 1/2" deep, so it could...

Well I mean what's my options, take coarse grit on a sanding block to it and do it by hand? Would a few seconds with a flap disc and then pausing so it never gets too hot to touch be ok? I've never worked with cast iron and don't know how it reacts to certain things. Seems most stroker builds...

The HB is not the issue, I have an OEM mopar HB. The snout on the crank is too long because it is not a 4.0L crank, it's a crank from a '70's AMC 232.

??? Said nothing about stilts. We're fixing vehicles, not taping drywall.