Recent content by adventureboss

Does anyone know where I can find a replacement throttle cable for my 06 with the 4.0? My throttle hangs on occasion and makes the idle high, I have to reach down and pull the pedal up towards me for it to let go. I'm sick of spraying it with white lithium grease only for it to start sticking in...

Okay, will replace all of them and report back. Hopefully it reduces it but I guess a quart every 3500 miles for an engine this old isn't too horrible.

I'm wondering if maybe a clog in that tube could cause it? Maybe I should start with replacing it and that grommet its seeping oil from. But what is there to fail in the PCV system since there is no real valve?

So my 06 TJ with the 4.0 has 227k miles on the clock. Runs great, no noises, overheating, etc. I did a compression test today and got between 176-184 psi on all cylinders (seems a tad high?). I also checked oil pressure and have 18 psi at idle with 10w-30 oil. My concern is it burns a quart...

I was checking for play on all my u joints today. Where the hell are my wheel axle u joints? I’m so confused. There’s a rubber boot instead? Did the previous owner put in an aftermarket shaft or something?

At 20 years old and 210k+ miles a few of mine are splitting and every single one is atleast cracked and seems bad. Reason I ask is because I don’t really hear about people replacing these on their Jeeps? Is there any real benefit to replacing them if I don’t have any clunks? Or am I going to...

So I replaced my six speed NSG370 in my TJ about 50k miles ago with a rebuilt High Impact after my friend unfortunately blew my original. I've been doing transmission fluid flushes every 20k-25k miles with Redline MTL. This gearbox normally doesn't ever really feel smooth. It has a notch when...

I think with the bow it depends how much tension you have. Mine doesn’t slap against it but thats because its pressing the mattress topper against the top. The top doesn’t really have any room to flutter it just gets cushioned by the foam. I also rented a softtop Bronco this weekend as I’m...

I'm getting ready to replace my rear control arms because the bushings are split and bulging. Replaced my rear sway bar bushings and endlinks 2 years ago at 115k miles. I'm at 212k miles now (yup I drive a lot). Noticed when I was down there inspecting that I could grab the rear sway bar and...

Ok guys, I think I'm going to have someone else do the rear main seal and I'll tackle the rest of the stuff myself. It just seems like too much of a headache and I have plenty more to do on the Jeep myself anyways.

Hmm... interesting. So Duralast could be rejected USMW fan clutches? Well, I'll try running it in Phoenix and see how it holds up. In those weather conditions it's gotta be locked all the time in the city. If I don't hear it doing that or it's letting the temps creep up too much I'll swap it out.

So my rear main seal is leaking pretty bad now and I'm considering doing it myself to save some money, but honestly it seems like such a pain in the ass I don't know if I really want to. My Jeep recently hit 210k miles and I feel like I've been wrenching on it a lot lately. I know I still have...

I think I used to be at 205-210ish, sometimes a tad more in Phoenix on the highway. I'm getting the coolant temps off the OBDII. The dash seems to stay at 210 no matter what the actual temperature is. And CSF radiator with the factory fan shroud. Ambient temps are 85-90 degrees. So I keep...

I haven't had a good time with Duralast parts either, but this fan clutch was USMW branded. Made in the US and I've heard they are a good company? I also have heard the USMW fan clutches are not as aggressive though. Maybe I'll try driving back to Phoenix with it and see how it does. If it runs...

My old Hayden fan clutch died a while back and I replaced it with a Duralast fan clutch which is made by USMW. That fan clutch was bad out of the box because it was locked ALL the time and overcooling. I replaced it under warranty with another one and now I've noticed that my temps are creeping...