The geometry correction here in and of itself is interesting where it addresses roll center and potentially the antisquat. Potentially. I know what I was seeing, so I'm not on board yet. The rest comes across as a lot of uneeded hyperbole for the sake of a bolstering a sales pitch.
Why a mid arm? Because when you actually need to address geometry problems, then solve them. Before that, I am a firm believer that for most people there is more immediate and over-arching benefit from good shocks and sway bars. Both of which can overshadow the minor issues most around here might face from lifted short arm geometry.
In my case, the every day driving and general off road didn't change a whole lot after the Savvy mid arm. And no, there is nothing unstable about it. That is absolute hyperbole. Right now mine can easily do 75mph with two fingers on the wheel for hours on end and has the ability to make hard right turns that squeal the tires with one hand on the wheel. What I notice most often is an overall calmness and predictability in the way mine moves through an obstacle. There are no bad habits with the Savvy mid arm. But where we are and what we do, we are all getting through the same trails.
The three most dramatic changes happened after the mid arm. The rear outboard with a good tune, followed by the Swayloc, and finally the front shocks with an improved retune on all four corners. The Swayloc made street driving nicer. But the shocks did more to transform the Jeep for the better in most scenarios than anything else did. This is why I downplay geometry correction as a point of fixation, because mine has extremely good geometry correction that comes from a winning race team. And despite that pedigree, if I were to do it all over again, I would start with shocks long before any geometry correction.
Lol.... you'll find after driving a tj with simple short arm geometry correction, it's much more stable than the tj savvy rear mid arm is without even having a sway bar on it. I have done several of them, frankly, I don't like the feel of it on a tj, it's much better on the LJ. One of the tj's I put together with the savvy kit got the rear upper control arm mounts redrilled to lower the arms because the owner complained about it acting like a boat.
Most long arm and mid arm kits don't even really address geometry, they are simply hyped up longer arms. Use a rokmen rock star, metal cloak, rubicon express for instance, stock separation at the axle. Rough country, fabtec and rusty's perform better due to the antisquat obtained from sharing a bolt hole on the frame end. The rockmen is the best of the bunch if you add geometry correction brackets and do not redrill the lower control mount.. the left over downfall is 33" tires hit the front lower control arms.
If you want less antisquat with geometry correction, drill another hole 5/8 inch lower in the upper axle brackets.
I used to think the outboards and and tuned shocks was the best thing we could do. Turns out, it's a bandaid for bad geometry. Outboard shocks do nothing for stability or "flex" for that matter COMPARED to short arm geometry correction. No tuned shocks or special springs are needed for purposes of handling. Our real gains from outboard shocks are uptravel. We are able to max out 17.5-18" free length springs and still land on a 2" bumpstop extension, compared to maxed out springs and 4-5" of bumpstop extension from shocks that bolt in the stock mounts. Add in tuned shocks, now you really have something to be proud of.
We do not have anywhere near any over extended arm issues with rear short arm geometry correction. It sits at full droop with less control arm angle with 12" outboard shocks than the savvy mid arm does at ride height with a 4" lift. We run out of drive shaft due to a bound up 16" double cardan shafts before the short arms with geometry correction get to the point they aren't working anymore.
If you run a line at a 4" lift ride height, the geometry corrected lower short arms hit the frame 36" from the bolt center on the rear axle mount.
I'm sorry people don't understand this or see what's actually happening and I'm surprised when it's coming from those whom supposedly understand rear suspension geometry. Some are simply blinded by the track bar still being used.
