What did you do to your TJ today?

Is there a list of the size screws used for the interior panels? Door panel, dash panel, center console, etc. My jeep was missing some of the hardware when I bought it and I've just dealt with it till now but I've gotten almost everything interior wise in good order at this point and now it's bothering me that about half the hardware is missing :ROFLMAO:

I probably have the ones I need somewhere, but somehow when I compare the hundreds of various screws I have, not a single one of them are the same size that's on the jeep :ROFLMAO:
Most of them are what we would consider sorta oddball. They tend to run a screw size undersized on the head for the body size. The head light trim ring screws are one example. #6 oval head Torx on a #8 screw. I have quantities of most interior screws if you want to send over a list of what you need. I am missing some of the door panel Torx oval trim head with captive washers so don't get excited for them.
 
Ordered the Moog ZJ steering conversion parts - $166 from Rock Auto rather than the $237 from Amazon. This should be the last of the parts I need to completely re-do my front end and install the front lunchbox locker.

Dang soon you're gonna be looking for all the rocks to drive over you can find out there.
 
Today I am dealing with a head/ chest cold, so I was sent home early from work. I took the time while I was still in my work clothes to work out a couple more things.

Firstly, I quieted up a steering column boot squeal by sliding up the booted cleaning the shaft, and applying some Super Lube silicone grease, and sliding the boot back down.

Next, I think I finally fixed my idle issues. I had initially pulled the IAC to clean it when I cleaned my throttle body, and I don’t believe I reassembled it properly, as this time I had the time to tinker. I unthreaded the plunger and took the spring and shield off, and looked to see if the actuator was sized or something obvious. Then I threaded the plunger back in and realized I barely had the thing in there when I first reassembled it. I then checked how far it could actually go and turns out you can screw it almost entirely in, but it doesn’t like “stop” turning. So I reassembled and it idles much better, it was still a bit high, by like 500-1,000 rpm. I looked at the throttle lever and stop and saw there was a bit of corrosion and I filed it smooth. I also added a bend in the return spring hook, just to give it a little more closing power.

Idles perfectly at 750-800 rpm, FINALLY.

I guess I can return the IAC I ordered that’s getting delivered tomorrow lol.

Oh and last night I diagnosed my HVAC mode issues to two broken door levers, one for the defrost and one for the vents. I had to screw a wood screw into the broken bits in the box, but got them out with a tug of the pliers. Awaiting new door levers, but at least it’s blowing out the vent currently.
 
Flipped the Sunrider back for the first time this season.

Wait.. what's that electrical smell? Is that coming from me?

A few minutes later...
Is that a brake pad dragging? Is it me?

Not too much later...
hmmm... burgers on the grill? I know that's not me..

And then...
Turn down the radio, I smell something. Is that oil burning?

The drive is a constant assault on your senses that have numbed over the winter. I love it.
 
Picked up the jeep last night...no quite done....
New axels from Currie (44's) and a new MC 3.5-4 lift kit to replace the absolutely worn out RC kit that was in there. Put about 125 miles on it all today. Lots of new vibrations and a wicked whistle. Pretty sure it's from the fins on the LED across the windshield.

A few small items to flush out. Steering stabilizer, don't really need it but why not. New bump stops and on and on and on....that list just grows.

20250318_125954.jpg


20250318_130003.jpg
 
Picked up the jeep last night...no quite done....
New axels from Currie (44's) and a new MC 3.5-4 lift kit to replace the absolutely worn out RC kit that was in there. Put about 125 miles on it all today. Lots of new vibrations and a wicked whistle. Pretty sure it's from the fins on the LED across the windshield.

A few small items to flush out. Steering stabilizer, don't really need it but why not. New bump stops and on and on and on....that list just grows.

View attachment 602032

View attachment 602033
I will say you do need the steering stabilizer; take it off and go down a bumpy road. Jeep put it there from the factory.

The whistling is from the windshield light bar. They all whistle and it sucks.
 
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I made an appointment to get some center Safe T Caps welded on my frame. Has anyone ever done business with or have any knowledge about SVE Performance in New Haven, Connecticut? I'm one town away and the guy seemed very knowledgeable. Quoted me a rough estimate of around $1200.00 for parts and labor.

Oh and I got it registered today. Got my classic plates. Jeep TJ.jpeg
 
I made an appointment to get some center Safe T Caps welded on my frame. Has anyone ever done business with or have any knowledge about SVE Performance in New Haven, Connecticut? I'm one town away and the guy seemed very knowledgeable. Quoted me a rough estimate of around $1200.00 for parts and labor.

Oh and I got it registered today. Got my classic plates. View attachment 602040
Is that front to back on both sides? If so that's cheap.
 
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I will say you do need the steering stabilizer; take it off and go down a bumpy road. Jeep put it there from the factory.

The whistling is from the windshield light bar. They all whistle and it sucks.


Drove pretty much all day today highway and side street miles . I was actually surprised how solid the steering felt . Rockjocks correct link works wonders but I agree it's going in just need the correct size clamp for it.

Tried an experiment and flipped the light bar 90deg. Just to see. Reminds me of the old deer whistles from the infomercials back in the day. It may find a home in the " extra parts pile "

But I did discover a new unusual sound....about 30minutes ago... grrrrr.
Excitement Ballon....deflated.
 
Yesterday messed around more with O2 sensors and running quality. Found that now heater resistance is below 5ohms, so buying another pair in case, along with an O2 thread chaser this time.
Not sure of temperature readings above and below catalytic converter, it didn't seem way hotter above than below, so hopefully that isn't clogged and the problem.
I probably should make all this into a separate thread!