What did you do to your TJ today?
- Thread starter LJRubiconGuy
- Start date
I am aware, and was only attempting to be humorous.
This would have helped those of us that are slow! .....
Kiwi TJ
Just asked myself if I’m crazy and we all said No
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Tesla!!! Wash your mouth out !! Lol
Been there done that. You'll make quick work of it with a reciprocating saw!
Think carbide tipped blades. I used the Diablo ones from Home Depot. The standard bi metal ones just tickled those bolts a bit. The Diablo ones made short work of the bolts.
Also, be careful not to cut the brackets. I nicked the first one enough to where I had to break out the welding box and fix it. Those carbide blades make even shorter work of the mounting brackets if you get into one.
Previous owners be like "I don't trust shops so I did all the work myself!"
The work:
The work:
Just so everyone's aware that's just a joke, I did that just so I could roll the Jeep backwards like 6 ft while I wait for the ZJ rod to come in
Here's my next sequence of tasks:
1. Drop the skid plate
2. Clean the skid plate
3. Replace the auto transmission gasket and fluid (it's leaking bad)
4. Replace the transfer case fluid
5. Screw something up and get pissed off about it
6. Put the skid plate back
1. Drop the skid plate
2. Clean the skid plate
3. Replace the auto transmission gasket and fluid (it's leaking bad)
4. Replace the transfer case fluid
5. Screw something up and get pissed off about it
6. Put the skid plate back
Nice work. Sounds like a good day.
Those were toast, wow.
In case you didn't know, you need the outer stubs to keep the unit bearing from coming apart when you drive it.
Thanks for the heads up, luckily I don't NEED to drive it while I wait for shafts, but I guess if I had to I could put just the stub shafts through the bearings with the nut on to hold them together. I was definitely under the impression that the unit bearings stayed together without anything else, but I can see how the clamping force from the nut on the stub shaft would keep it together.
New to me Wrangle with 74k miles on it, and it was sitting in a garage for 3 years. Lots of work needs to be done.
The oil pressure gauge is pegged all the way to the right at 80, even at start up. This is very unlikely to be accurate. Any tips on how to fix this?
The oil pressure gauge is pegged all the way to the right at 80, even at start up. This is very unlikely to be accurate. Any tips on how to fix this?
Some months ago, I bought a set of Chinese LED H4 headlight bulbs off of Facebook. They were cheap enough that I figured that I couldn't get hurt very badly on them. Well, last night's 35 mile ride was the first time since I put them in that I got to use them at night for any distance. They're definitely bright enough on low beam. Brighter than my old halogens were. High beams were going down to where the fog lights light up in front of me. Either I was blinding oncoming traffic or getting a very good view of the pavement right in front of me. I was not amused.
This morning, the LEDs came out and the old halogens that I saved went back into the H4 housings. I love the Hella H4 conversion over the stock sealed beams, but those LED bulbs were a bit of a disappointment. Just glad I didn't pay that much for them ($40ish if I remember right). Heck that was about what I paid for the halogen bulbs.
And while I'm thinking about it, while I was under the LJ, I replaced the exhaust from in front of the muffler with a Walker 17197 muffler, back through a new stock type tail pipe. I was surprised the old muffler didn't collapse from the rust when I took it off. I'm guess it was about plugged internally as the 4.0 runs better now with a freely flowing exhaust and not noisy at all.
I did have the thought of cutting the exhaust before the two downpipes come together and running duals with glass packs out behind the rear axle , but decided to wait on that until next time.
This morning, the LEDs came out and the old halogens that I saved went back into the H4 housings. I love the Hella H4 conversion over the stock sealed beams, but those LED bulbs were a bit of a disappointment. Just glad I didn't pay that much for them ($40ish if I remember right). Heck that was about what I paid for the halogen bulbs.
And while I'm thinking about it, while I was under the LJ, I replaced the exhaust from in front of the muffler with a Walker 17197 muffler, back through a new stock type tail pipe. I was surprised the old muffler didn't collapse from the rust when I took it off. I'm guess it was about plugged internally as the 4.0 runs better now with a freely flowing exhaust and not noisy at all.
I did have the thought of cutting the exhaust before the two downpipes come together and running duals with glass packs out behind the rear axle , but decided to wait on that until next time.
I'd be looking at the oil pressure sending unit first and if it's good, then go from there.
And mopar is better than box store, though pricey
I bought my Mopar oil pressure sending unit on Amazon for $44.
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I'd be tempted to go buy a cheap mechanical gauge from AutoZone or wherever to verify the reading, then start hunting down parts. The last vehicle that happened to me on the diaphragm in the sending unit busted causing the gauge to stay pegged like what you're describing.
This empty space is where my tj usually sits but this morning I dropped it off at Billy Johnson Differentials for a set of Revolution 5.13's. Another round of gear break in.