Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts

I'm trying to make a bad locker choice, need a voice of reason

Foxhound67

Fix it till it's broken
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Utah
Doing a super 35 kit in the rear, a detroit locker would be my choice as an auto locker is one less thing to worry about, it just does its job when it's supposed to. However, I live in northern Utah where I like to say there are two seasons, Winter and July. I've read many places including here that detroit/grizzly is generally not a good idea if you get snow/ice regularly. Do I just need to suck it up and do an Eaton or ARB?
 
Doing a super 35 kit in the rear, a detroit locker would be my choice as an auto locker is one less thing to worry about, it just does its job when it's supposed to. However, I live in northern Utah where I like to say there are two seasons, Winter and July. I've read many places including here that detroit/grizzly is generally not a good idea if you get snow/ice regularly. Do I just need to suck it up and do an Eaton or ARB?

I live in Colorado and faced the same dilemma when I upgraded to a super 35. I too was considering a Detroit style locker, but on advice from others on various forums about the downfalls of that type of locker on slick pavement, I went with the Eaton E-Locker. It has worked out wonderfully.
 
I think deep down I know Eaton is the correct answer, even if I do ARB I'll likely end up with a CO2 fill system so the OBA isn't as big of a plus for me as it might be for others. I'm also not a fan of the idea that if a compressor takes a dump in the middle of a trail I just don't have a rear locker anymore as compared to an E locker. Even if the wire gets broken somehow I can always rig that back together enough to get down from wherever I end up.
 
Been happy with the Eaton e-lockers…would go that route again over other options.

My reasoning:
- reliable
- no pumps or air leaks to worry about
- strong (4-pinion) have been flawless in the rocks
- the switches look nice and have an unlocking slide-tab design to prevent accidental engagement.
 
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Doing a super 35 kit in the rear, a detroit locker would be my choice as an auto locker is one less thing to worry about, it just does its job when it's supposed to. However, I live in northern Utah where I like to say there are two seasons, Winter and July. I've read many places including here that detroit/grizzly is generally not a good idea if you get snow/ice regularly. Do I just need to suck it up and do an Eaton or ARB?

An e-locker is more expensive than a Detroit, but knowing your winters can be snowy and icy I’d go with an e-locker. While a detroit is bulletproof full case locker, you would be sliding all over the place in in snow/ice. You know what’s best. You’ll be much happier in the end.
 
If you live where winter is a thing and like driving in it go Elocker. I did the mechanical locker for a while and it can be done but you are always on your toes waiting for when (not if) it decides to misbehave.
 
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Texas here, so I am useless for snow- but if you already have OBA, I LOVE my ARB. I still cackle like a mad man when I switch it on and climb out of a rut. The thing has been tough as nails, and imperceptible in DD'ing, even makes cool noises when you disengage it :)

I read somewhere that when you engage an E-locker the electromagnet may pull metal particles from the oil and magnetize them onto the gear face ,potentially causing marring - IDK that I believe it, but logically plausible.
 
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I read somewhere that when you engage an E-locker the electromagnet may pull metal particles from the oil and magnetize them onto the gear face ,potentially causing marring - IDK that I believe it, but logically plausible.

Whoever came up with that didn't think things through at all.
 
I have no clue, since it never snows in the south. :unsure:
SNOW JEEP.jpg
 
I loved my previous TJ's rear Detroit Locker but I'd go for a selectable locker where you live. Personally I'd opt for the Eaton E-Locker.

Just curious, what did you like about your Detroit locker?

I currently have factory lockers on my rubicon but just reading through here in case I have issues with my lockers down the road
 
Just curious, what did you like about your Detroit locker?
It was unobtrusive/well-behaved on the street and was "point and shoot" offroad. It just worked and it worked extremely well. I'd only not recommend one for those who have to drive on icy or snow-covered paved roads or trails.
 
You are a wise man.
I have a Eaton and it just works. People who say you just have to know how to drive an auto locker in snow obviously haven't driven in the Rockies , uphill , in the snow , around a corner. ;)

Who says a rear auto locker is ok in the snow and ice? Are they really just not good in the Rockies going uphill in the snow around a corner? If so, every other scenario is valid.
 
If activation reliability is a big concern, the Ox locker has a backup manual activation that should be bullet proof. It takes changing out an external part but it's thread on actuator change and direct activation, no air or electrically moved parts to lock differential. Can be remotely actuated with cable, electric or air for convenience. https://ox-usa.com/product-category/1-lockers/dana-44/
 
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Who says a rear auto locker is ok in the snow and ice? Are they really just not good in the Rockies going uphill in the snow around a corner? If so, every other scenario is valid.
Auto lockers can make tire slippage/skidding a much bigger problem on ice. The significantly lower traction of ice makes it difficult if not impossible for an automatic locker like the Detroit Locker to unlock while going around a turn or curve. If the outside tire isn't free to rotate faster through a turn on ice it will skid/slide.
 
How do the Eaton and ARB lockers compare in terms of strength / durability?

I did some research a few years ago (things may have changed) and I found the strength/durability to be about the same. This is not true of the early versions of the elocker, but it is for the later versions. The big difference (other than the ARB needs Air source) is that the e-locker needs to spin a half a turn (or so) to engage and it will temporarily disengage when reversing. The original Elocker used ball bearings which needed to rotate to push the plate, the latest elocker (unless it has changed since my research) uses a pin which climbs a ramp to engage. The ARB locks solid with air pressure and does not disengage.

I chose the elocker just to avoid the air source requirement and any issues with air leaks and have been happy with the elockers, the disengage issue has not been an issue. I have had an occasion when I didn't lock the locker beforehand then got into a situation where it would not lock when needed (not sure if the wrong wheel was spinning or what), but if you lock it before needing it there has never been an issue.

Just my 2cents and I don't guarantee validity :)
 
The auto locker will work fine most of the time. But that one time when you really wish you were in control, you won't be. I would (and did) go with the E-Locker for Colorado driving.

The switch which comes with the E-Locker is enormous. Instead of trying to mount that monster, I used a GCD switch which snaps into the switch bank on the dash:

Switches.jpg

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08HM97SW9/?tag=wranglerorg-20
 
Novak Conversions Jeep Wrangler TJ engine mounts